
COSMOPOLITANENCYCLOPEDIA OF POPULAR CULTURE
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women. Instead Hearst hired her to revamp the moribund Cosmopoli-
tan, which was near death at the time. With almost no journalism
experience Brown became its first female editor.
The first revamped Cosmo in July of 1965 launched a new era in
women’s magazines. It addressed sex in frank terms and gave readers
a barrage of upbeat self-improvement tips for sex, work, and the
physical self. Naomi Wolf, author of The Beauty Myth, termed
Cosmopolitan the first of ‘‘the new wave of post-women’s movement
magazines’’ that depicted women as sexual beings. Compared to its
predecessors among women’s service magazines, Cosmopolitan,
wrote Wolf, set forth ‘‘an aspiration, individualist, can-do tone that
says that you should be your best and nothing should get in your
way.... But the formula must also include an element that contra-
dicts and then undermines the overall prowoman fare’’ with anxiety-
proving articles about cellulite, breast size, and wrinkles.
Brown always focused her magazine’s editorial slant on the
reader she termed ‘‘the mouseburger.’’ Clearly a self-referential term,
Brown defined it for Glenn Collins of the New York Times in 1982:
‘‘A mouseburger is a young woman who is not very prepossessing,’’
Brown said. ‘‘She is not beautiful. She is poor, has no family
connections, and she is not a razzle-dazzle ball of charm and fire. She
is a kind of waif.’’ With a heavy editorial emphasis on sex and dating
features, tell-all stories, and beauty and diet tips, Cosmopolitan had
become an American institution by the 1970s, and the term ‘‘Cosmo
Girl’’ seemed synonymous with the ultra-liberated woman in her
twenties who had several ‘‘beaus,’’ a well-paying job, and a hedonis-
tic lifestyle. The magazine also introduced the male centerfold with a
much-publicized spread of actor Burt Reynolds in its April 1972 issue.
Yet the reality was somewhat different: Cosmopolitan’s
demographics were rooted in the lower income brackets, attracting
readers with little college education who held low-paying, usually
clerical jobs. The ‘‘Cosmo Girl’’ on the cover and the few vampy
fashion pages inside reflected this—the Cosmo style was far different
from the more restrained, elegant, or avant-garde look of its journalis-
tic sisters like Vogue or even Mademoiselle, which focused on a more
middle class readership. Though often a top model or celebrity, the
women on Cosmo’s covers were usually shown in half-or three-
quarter-length body shots, often by Francesco Scavullo for several
years, to show off the low-cut evening wear. The hair was far more
overdone—read ‘‘big’’—than usual for women’s magazines, and
skimpy beaded gowns alternated with lamé and halter tops, a distinct-
ly downmarket style. The requisite ‘‘bedroom eyes’’ and pouty
mouth completed the ‘‘Cosmo Girl’’ cover shot.
Framing the cover model were teasing blurbs written by Brown’s
husband, a film producer, such as ‘‘You’ve Cheated. Do You Ever
Tell?’’ Blurbs also trumpeted the pull-out ‘‘Bedside Astrology Guide,’’
an annual feature, and articles like ‘‘How to Close the Deal’’—how to
get your boyfriend to agree to marriage. ‘‘Irma Kurtz’s Agony
Column’’ placated readers with true-life write-in questions and
answers from readers with often outrageous personal problems borne
of their own bad decisions. ‘‘The magazine allows women the
impression of a pseudo-sexual liberation and a vicarious participation
in the life of an imaginary ‘swinging single’ woman,’’ wrote Ellen
McCracken in her book Decoding Women’s Magazines. ‘‘Although
most readers will never dress or behave as the magazine urges,
Cosmopolitan offers them momentary opportunity to transgress the
predominant sexual mores in the privacy of their homes.’’
By 1981 Cosmopolitan’s circulation had quadruped its 1965
figures. Brown never seemed surprised that her magazine had suc-
ceeded so well. As she told Roxanne Roberts in the Washington Post,
‘‘Cosmo really is this basic message: Just do what’s there every day,
and one thing will finally lead to another and you’ll get to be
somebody.... I believe most 20-year-old women think they’re not
pretty enough, smart enough, they don’t have enough sex appeal, they
don’t have the job they want, they’ve still got some problems with
their family,’’ Brown told Roberts. ‘‘All that raw material is there to
be turned into something wonderful. I just think of my life. If I can do
it, anybody can.’’
For 16 years the magazine, under Brown’s editorship, was one of
the Hearst chain’s top performers. At one point in the 1980s it had the
highest number of advertising pages of all women’s magazines in the
United States. Most of the copies—about 2.5 million—were pur-
chased at the newsstand, an impulse buy and thus more profitable for
Hearst than the discounted subscription price, and its ‘‘pass-around’’
rate was also much higher than its competition.
Not surprisingly, Cosmopolitan has always been a particular
target of feminist ire. As early as 1970 it appeared in the Appendix of
the classic tome Sisterhood Is Powerful: An Anthology of Writings
from the Women’s Liberation Movement on the ‘‘Drop Dead List.’’
But Brown defended her magazine in the 1982 interview with Collins
of the New York Times. ‘‘Cosmo predated the women’s movement,
and I have always said my message is for the woman who loves men
but who doesn’t want to live through them.... I sometimes think
feminists don’t read what I write. I am for total equality. My relevance
is that I deal with reality.’’ The reality was that sometimes women did
sleep with their bosses, or date married men, or use psychological
ruses to maintain a relationship or force a marriage, and Cosmopoli-
tan was one of the few women’s magazines to write about such issues
in non-judgmental terms. It was criticized, however, for failing to
address safe-sex issues after the advent of AIDS (Acquired Immune
Deficiency Syndrome) in the 1980s.
Helen Gurley Brown retired in 1997 after an interim joint-
editorship with the launch editor of Marie Claire, Bonnie Fuller. A
Cosmopolitan-ized version of the French original, Marie Claire is the
closest American offering on the newsstands to Cosmopolitan, but
features a more sophisticated, Elle-type fashion slant. ‘‘The Hearst
move was about acknowledging change,’’ noted Mediaweek’s Barba-
ra Lippert, describing Brown as almost a relic from a quainter, more
innocent age. ‘‘These days, however, everybody’s negotiating a new,
much more complicated set of questions than how to land a man . . .
the whole Little Miss Secretary Achiever thing is anathema to some
twentysomethings, who are more interested in cybersex and the single
girl,’’ Lippert wrote. Both the age and the income level of Cosmopoli-
tan’s average American reader had climbed somewhat, and a higher
percentage of married women now read it. By the time of Brown’s
retirement, Cosmopolitan was an international phenomenon, with 29
editions in several different languages. The 1960s-era themes of
sexual liberation seemed to catch on most successfully in the newly
‘‘de-Communized’’ countries of the Eastern Bloc, where equal rights
for women had once been a hallmark of their legal, social, and
economic systems. ‘‘Think of it,’’ wrote the Washington Post’s
Roberts. ‘‘Cosmo girls everywhere. Like McDonald’s with cleavage.’’
—Carol Brennan
F
URTHER READING:
Collins, Glenn. ‘‘At 60, Helen Gurley Brown Talks about Life and
Love.’’ New York Times. September 19, 1982, 68.