14.1
Description of Wave Propagation
437
x 2
_
1 2L 2
(a) q' (x)-~---L e
~','I \', L2<L I
/1i
/l '~~L
=
L 1
Irlk 12
(b) Irlk 12 = e "L2k2
...
L1 ~
kN
Figure 14.6
(a) A Gaussian disturbance imposed initially to the free surface. The length
L characterizes the width of the disturbance. (b) The power spectrum of the disturbance, as a
function of zonal wavenumber k. As L increases, variance becomes concentrated at small k in
a red
spectrum, which excites waves in the longwave limit. As L decreases, variance becomes
distributed widely over k, approaching a
white
spectrum with most of the variance at large k,
which excites waves in the shortwave limit.
(Fig. 14.6b), the demonstration of which is left as an exercise. The excited
wave field is then described by (14.11.1), with individual components subject
to the dispersion relation (14.18).
If the scale of the imposed disturbance is sufficiently long (e.g., L > > H),
the power spectrum of r/' (Fig. 14.6b) is very
red:
Variance is concentrated
at small
IklH,
so the excit.ed wave field is comprised of shallow water waves.
Far from the impulse, where waves can be treated as planar, the disturbance
(Fig. 14.7a) then translates outward jointly with its envelope at a uniform
speed c = c~ and retains its initial form. Therefore, wave activity (shaded)
remains confined to the same range of x as initially.
In the shortwave limit, the phase speed (14.21) depends on
Ikl.
Individual
components (k, l) then propagate with different phase speeds, so a disturbance
comprised of deep water waves cannot retain its initial shape. The difference
in phase speed between components with small and large
Ikl
leads to a group
unraveling with time. Such waves are said to be
dispersive
because a disturbance
that is initially compact is eventually smeared over a wider domain. The group
speed for deep water waves follows from (14.21) as
cg-~ Ikl
c
-- ~. (14.26)
Thus, a group of deep water waves propagates at exactly half their median
phase speed, both c and
cg
being functions of
Ikl.
The behavior predicted by (14.26) is readily observed with the toss of a
pebble into a pond and is recovered from (14.25) if the horizontal scale of
the disturbance is sufficiently short (e.g., L < < H). The power spectrum of