
outside the home, inside which the labor and deliv-
ery, overseen by a midwife, took place. The mother
delivered the child either in a squatting position or
in a specially designed bed, and the umbilical cord
was cut with a bamboo or steel knife. Seven days
later, relatives and friends were invited to pay a visit
to the new family. It was on this day that the new-
born received his or her name. (See “Shichiya” in the
section on Festivals and Yearly Rituals below.)
The upper classes often availed themselves of
foster mothers or wet nurses, particularly if the
mother was too busy to nurse or had died in child-
birth. A typical lower-class woman, however, rarely
spent a minute of her time apart from her infant. A
baby spent most of its daytime hours strapped to
its mother’s back by a broad cloth wrapped across
its back and underneath its buttocks. It was in-
termittently taken out for feedings which, it should
be noted, were carried on for far longer than
Western standards of that time. Even when the
child grew old enough to spend the night in its
own bed, it continued to sleep in the company of its
parents.
FOOD AND DRINK
Japanese eating customs varied widely depending on
socioeconomic status. Typically, religious figures
and those in the upper classes ate about two meals
per day, one before noon and the other in the late
afternoon or early evening. Later, following the lead
of the warrior classes during the mid-Edo period,
nobles and monks developed the habit of eating
three meals per day, with the largest meal being con-
sumed in the evening. Meanwhile, the poor involved
in physical labor might consume up to four meals a
day.
Buddhist dietary guidelines banned the con-
sumption of meat because it was deemed impure and
spiritually defiling. Correspondingly, nobles typi-
cally did not eat meat products, although some of
the upper class did enjoy it in secret. In contrast, it
was fairly common for those of the warrior and
lower classes to consume meat on a regular basis.
Cooking
Japanese cooking was filled with the staples of
seafood, marine vegetation, and rice. Because of reli-
gious stipulations, animal products were not typi-
cally used in food preparation. Instead, common
ingredients included soybean products such as miso,
a nutritious grain and soybean paste made with rice
or barley, and mirin, a sweetened version of sake
used in combination with vinegar and soy sauce.
Common spices used included ginger, wasabi (Japan-
ese horseradish) and sansho (a dried green powder
made from grinding the seedpods of the prickly ash
tree). Usually, these products could be found at local
town markets, which often had a great supply of
fruits, vegetables, seafood, and other food products
for the general populace.
In the 13th century, a form of cooking known as
shojin ryori (“diligence cuisine”) was introduced to
Japan by Chinese Zen monks. This is a form of veg-
etarian cooking that utilizes fresh, seasonal vegeta-
bles, seaweed, tofu, and other fresh ingredients
prepared in a simple manner. This form of Buddhist
cooking reflects the Buddhist admonition against
killing any form of life. During the Edo period,
Japanese cuisine acquired an assortment of new
influences from China, Korea, and Western coun-
tries such as Portugal and Spain.
Sake
One of the most popular drinks within Japan was
sake, or rice wine. This alcoholic beverage began as a
drink commonly consumed within group or social
settings, such as celebrations, festivals, or parties.
During the Edo period, however, sake developed
into an everyday drink that could easily be purchased
at local markets and was consumed with regularity.
Dining Etiquette
The manner in which meals were consumed
depended on several factors, including a family’s
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