a specimen is polished for too long on the pad its surface may become
rippled.
(d) Apply light pressure at all times during grinding and polishing.
10.24 Etching the Specimen Before being etched the specimen must
be absolutely clean, otherwise it will undoubtedly stain during etching.
Nearly every case of failure in etching can be traced to inadequate cleaning
of the specimen so that a film of grease still remains.
The specimen should first be washed free of any adhering polishing
compound. The latter can be rubbed from the sides of the specimen with
the fingers, but care must be exercised in touching the polished face. The
best way to clean this is by very gently smearing the surface with a finger-tip
dipped in grit-free soap solution, and washing under the tap. Even now
the specimen may be slightly greasy, and the final film of grease is best
removed by immersing the specimen in boiling ethanol ('white' industrial
methylated spirit) for about two minutes. The ethanol should not be heated
over a naked flame, but preferably by an electrically heated water-bath.
Proprietary degreasing solutions are now obtainable. The fact that some
of these are perfumed brought forth the predictable ribald comments from
some of the author's students. However, it is suspected that the function
of the perfume is to mask the identity of the simple organic solvents used.
They seem to have no advantage over white methylated spirit or trichloro-
methane (carbon tetrachloride) as de-greasants.
From this point onwards the specimen must not be touched by the fingers
but handled with a pair of nickel crucible tongs. It is removed from the
ethanol and cooled in running water before being etched. With specimens
mounted in thermoplastic materials it may be found that the mount is
dissolved by hot ethanol. In such cases swabbing with a piece of cotton
wool soaked in caustic soda solution may be found effective for degreasing.
When thoroughly clean, the specimen is etched by being plunged into
the etching reagent and agitated vigorously for several seconds. The speci-
men is then quickly transferred to running water to wash away the etching
reagent, and then examined to see the extent to which etching has taken
place. Such inspection is carried out with the naked eye. If successfully
etched the surface will appear slightly dull, and in cast materials the indi-
vidual crystals may actually be seen without the aid of the microscope. If
the surface is still bright further etching will be necessary. The time
required for etching varies with different alloys and etching reagents. Some
alloys can be etched sufficiently in a few seconds, whilst some stainless
steels,
being resistant to attack by most reagents, require as much as thirty
minutes.
After being etched the specimen is washed in running water and then
dried by immersion for a minute or so in boiling ethanol. If it is withdrawn
from the ethanol and shaken with a flick of the wrist to remove the surplus,
it will dry almost instantaneously. For mounted specimens, the mounts of
which are affected by boiling ethanol, it is better to spot a few drops of
ethanol on the surface of the specimen. The surplus is then shaken off and
the specimen held in a current of warm air from a hair drier. The specimen
must be dried evenly and quickly, or it will stain. If an efficient hair drier