//FS2/CUP/3-PAGINATION/SDE/2-PROOFS/3B2/9780521873628C14.3D
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wavelength is proportional to a
2
l and since
l /V /h
1/2
, a increases with decreasing water
depth h as h
1/4
. On this basis a 1 m wave in
4 km deep ocean becomes a 4 m wave in 15 m
of water, by which point non-linearity is signifi-
cant and the simple rule breaks down. Other
important factors that affect wave amplitude
are refraction towards shallow water, which
selects certain sections of coastline for enhanced
waves according to the sea floor topography, and
local resonances (seiches) in bays, estuaries and
harbours. A naturally defended coastline is one
with sharp submarine contours offshore (per-
pendicular to the wave direction). The amplitude
calculation above assumes a gently sloping sea
floor, but if there is a sharp change of depth,
relative to the wavelength, then partial reflec-
tion occurs. The water motion extends through
the full depth of the sea and such depth changes
can be modelled as impedance mismatches. A
reef, with a steep outer edge distant from the
shore, is ideal, blocking motion in much of the
water column and reflecting the corresponding
fraction of the wave energy.
The floor of the Indian Ocean is subducting
beneath Sumatra and the Andaman Islands to
the north of it, and the 2004 earthquake was a
sharp increment in this process. The subducting
(western) plate jerked downwards and the over-
riding (eastern) plate upwards in the manner
illustrated by Fig. 10.14. For waves propagating
in the two opposite directions, the first motions,
illustrated by a set of five tide records repro-
duced by Lay et al. (2005), were the reverse of
what this simple picture would suggest.
Similarly, the Norfolk Island record of the Chile
tsunami (Fig. 14.17(a)) shows an initial rise in
level, although the island is on the subducting
side of the fault. In both cases the fault dips were
shallow and the simple view of up or down
motion on opposite sides is not valid. All of the
major tsunamigenic subduction zone earth-
quakes have focal mechanisms similar to the
model of the Alaska earthquake in Fig. 14.7,
with shallow dipping fault planes. It is necessary
to recognize that the stress release is always of
double couple form (Fig. 14.9(b)). As Fig. 14.7
shows, the initial sea floor motion is downwards
at the land edge, causing an initial water
withdrawal at the nearby shore and initial inun-
dation at remote sites. We need to recognize also
that there is probably always some sediment
slumping. In the Sumatra case this is consistent
with evidence for a very slow component of the
tsunami excitation (Lay et al., 2005). The speed of
slumping is much slower than the wave speed,
so this component behaves quite differently
from earthquake excitation and would not have
contributed to the first motion of the wave.
14.9 Microseisms
A limit to the useful sensitivity of seismic record-
ing is imposed by background vibration, to
which the term microseisms is applied. It is
most serious at periods between 5 s and 12 s.
The word does not imply that microseisms are
caused by numerous small earthquakes. There
are several causes, some of which are local,
such as the shaking of trees by wind (forests are
seismically noisy). Of greater interest is the gen-
eration of microseisms by storm waves at sea.
Storm-generated microseisms are observed at
great distances. They are principally Rayleigh
waves (vertically polarized surface waves – see
Section 15.3).
Ocean waves are caused by friction between
the wind and sea surface. The amplitudes and
wavelengths grow with wind velocity and its
duration up to a limit. This limit occurs when
the phase velocity of the waves is approximately
equal to the wind speed, a condition that gives
rise to what is called a fully developed sea.
For deep water waves (kh 1, tanh (kh) !1),
Eq. (14.53) becomes V ¼(g/k)
1/2
, so that the
period is
T ¼ 2pV=g: (14:58)
For 30 to 40 knot winds (15.4 to 20.6 m s
1
), typ-
ical of storms, Eq. (14.58) gives periods of 10 to
13 seconds and wavelengths of 150 to 270 m.
Consider a water wave propagating across
deep ocean. The particle motion is circular, in
the sense of a wheel rotating backwards relative
to the forward motion of the wave, giving the
surface a trochoidal form, with crests sharper
than troughs. But the vertical motion of the
222 KINEMATICS OF THE EARTHQUAKE PROCESS