Beverages
65
The brewing process for beer is the same as for ale, but we reserve the
word beer for a brewing process that uses hops for fl avor and preservation.
Hops is a climbing vine that grows male and female fl owers; the female
fl owers are used as a fl avoring in cooking. In Roman times, they were used
as seasoning. During the time of Charlemagne, hops were grown in gar-
dens, and they may have been used for fl avoring ale, like any other herb.
The growth and trade in hops increased during the Middle Ages, and it
was often grown in monastery gardens. In the 9th century, some Frank-
ish bishops wrote about the use of hops in brewing ale. However, its use
remained local and undifferentiated from other herbs until the 12th cen-
tury. When used in brewing, the hops were added to the boiling wort in
a bag so they could be removed cleanly. If not, they had to be fi ltered out
with any other vegetable matter.
Hopped beer did not spoil as readily, as the hops prevented the growth of
bacteria. Hopped beer could be more widely sold and imported out of its
region, unlike other ales, which had to be quickly consumed locally. Hopped
beer could be made with lower alcohol content, so it could be made in
greater quantity and more cheaply. However, its taste was dramatically dif-
ferent from traditional ale fl avored with bog myrtle or rosemary. Consum-
ers did not immediately take to it. Beer was most often made from barley,
like traditional ale, but it could also be made from oats, wheat, or rye. The
taste of different beers began to vary widely, since each grain made a differ-
ent taste, and other herbs such as mint were still added with the hops. Each
brewery guarded its recipe.
Hopped beer became a big export from northern Germany after 1200.
The Hanseatic League, centered in Hamburg, began to ship both beer
and hops. Since the Hanseatic League already had a marketing network
for herring and codfi sh, it was easy for them to incorporate international
beer sales. Beer from Bremen, Hamburg, and Wismar sold well in the mar-
kets of Flanders and Holland. Hopped beer was also a boon to sailors on
ships, since it would not spoil during a voyage. As consumers adjusted
to its taste, beer was in more demand than traditional ale, and brewers in
Holland began to make hopped beer.
In a city of reasonable size, there might be over 100 small brewers.
A large amount of the harvested grain went to beer, since water was not
safe to drink. Even as the population of Northern Europe fell during the
14th century, the import of grain increased because beer became more
popular.
Beer was always considered inferior to wine, but it was less expensive,
and it became the most common drink outside the major wine-growing
regions of France. Some considered it a healthful beverage, and some did
not. The Black Death plague also helped beer catch on. Fewer people