1434 B. Bhushan, C. LaTorre
Figure 24.66 displays a summary of the data collected for all chemically dam-
aged hair samples and their treatments [48]. The figure also includes the macroscale
coefficient of friction data obtained using a technique similar to the macroscale
measurement technique described earlier (Fig. 24.17). Table 24.16 reviews some
of the observations and corresponding mechanismswhich help to explain the trends
found [48]. The application of the commercial conditioner to the chemically dam-
aged hair caused a decreased coefficient of friction and a large increase in adhesive
force. The decreased coefficient of friction may be explained by the fact that the
chemically damaged hair accumulates much of the positively charged conditioner
on the surface due to its highly negative charge, which in turn makes it easier to
shear the liquid on the surface, causing lower coefficient of friction. However, the
nanoscale pull-off force (adhesive force) is much larger than on the untreated hair
because of meniscus effects. In general, adhesive force varied widely, but typically
showed a significant increase with the presence of conditioner. As discussed pre-
viously, this is a clear sign that meniscus effects are influencing the pull-off force
between the tip and the sample.
In most cases, the macroscale and microscale coefficient of friction followed
the same trend, in which a decrease was observed with the addition of the PDMS
blend or amino silicones to the surfactant. The silicones are typically used as a major
source of lubrication and thus give the conditioner more mobility on the hair surface
compared to just surfactants and fatty alcohols. The inverse trend was seen only for
the amino silicone group.
The amino silicones have a strong electrostatic attraction to the negatively
charged hair surface, which in turn creates higher binding forces and less mobil-
ity. The dampened mobility of the amino silicone, with respect to hair surface and
Table 24.16. Observations and corresponding mechanisms regarding coefficient of friction
and adhesion for various hair treatments
Observation Mechanism
Damaged vs. damaged treated hair
Damaged hair shows a decrease in
coefficient of friction but an increase in
adhesion from the application of com-
mercial conditioner.
The conditioner layer deposited on the surface
of the damaged hair results in a lower shear
strength which in turn lowersthe coefficient of
friction, while meniscus effects increase the
pull-off (adhesive) force between the tip and
hair sample.
PDMS blend vs. amino silicone
Amino silicones interact strongly with
negatively charged hair surface.
A stronger electrostatic attraction exists which
results in stronger binding forces (which leads
to higher adhesion) for amino silicone.
Amino silicone thickness distribution on
hair is less uniform than with PDMS blend.
Less mobility with amino silicones, so
molecules attach to hair at contact and do not
redistribute easily.