UNIT
13
Amsterdam
On the quiet Leidsegracht (the Leidse Canal), a short walk
from the important Leidseplein (Leidse Square, one of the
two major entertainment areas of Amsterdam), you should
find adequate rooms (some recent complaints) at the Hotel
de Leydsche Hof, 14 Leidsegracht (phone 23-21-48),
where most rooms rent for 45 guilders per person (with
nearby baths and showers always available at no extra
charge), including service charge and tax. A beautiful oak
staircase here, unusually large wood-paneled rooms, and
special prices for children.
2 He Witte Huis Hotel, at 382 Marnixstraat (phone 27-07-
77), offers 24 inexpensive rooms (8 singles and 16 doubles)
at 50 guilders ($25) single, 40 guilders ($20) per person dou-
ble or twin, 35 guilders ($17.50) per person in triples and
quads, including a remarkable breakfast of coffee, tea or
milk, an egg, cheese, ham, sausage, marmalade, chocolate-
spread and four types of bread (two slices of white, one each
of brown and biscuit bread). Owner is a Mr Damian, helpful
and friendly; the hotel itself is only 200 yards from the Leid-
seplein, an exceptional location.
40 to 48 Guilders ($20 to $24) per Person,
Breakfast and Service Included
3 For family travelers to Amsterdam, the Hotel Kap at 5B
Den Tex Straat (phone 24-59-08) in the Leidseplein-Rijks-
museum area, offers several four-bedded rooms at 48 guil-
ders ($24) per person, into which they'll place additional
children at much-reduced rates. I saw a family of seven in
residence in May of 1987. The price includes a Dutch break-
fast with egg any style other than poached; the bonus fea-
tures include free showers and a scale, next to the ground
floor staircase, on which you can check your weight free.
4 Ten minutes by tram 9 from the center, in a pleasant and
quiet residential area near the Zoo, the Hotel Olszewski at
89 Plantage Muidergracht (phone 23-62-41), is owned and
managed by a friendly but somewhat strict retired police
officer of Polish descent, Viktor Olszewski, who rents bath-
less rooms (showers are free) at 50 guilders ($25) per single,
40 guilders ($20) per person double, 42 guiders ($21) per per-
son for twin beds, all in well-furnished and impeccably clean
rooms — but ones in which you can't hold a noisy party at
night (you'll be asked to leave the next day)! There's also a
1.15 a.m. curfew. And downstairs, the lounge and bar are
decorated with flags, badges and postcards from fellow pol-
ice officers all over the world. Here's one for readers seeking
order and security in a turbulent world.
36 to 40 Guilders ($18 to $20) per Person,
Breakfast and Service Included
5 An entire collection of extremely cheap hotels (again with
near-perpendicular stairs, but satisfactory rooms) is found
in an almost unbroken line, composed of half a dozen estab-
lishments, on the Raadhuisstraat — which is a three-
minute walk from the Dam Square, between the Heren-
gracht and the Keizersgracht. My favourite here is the
Hotel Westertorten, 35B Raadhuisstraat (phone 24-46-
39), owned by a young Dutch-British couple, Tony and Chris
van der Veen, both excellent hosts who make a point of
explaining the history and layout of the city to their guests.
Their charge per person is 40 guilders per night; and their
hotel is best for use in the off-season, when central heating
and Dutch TV are both on full blast, and Tony and Chris can
give you their full attention and advice.
27.50 to 35 Guilders ($13.75 to $17.50) per
Person, Breakfast (sometimes) and
Service Included
6 Now the price is again lower, but the location this time is the
awesomely lovely Prinsengracht canal, where the Hotel de
moor is an old, old canal house at no. 1015 (phone 23-16-
66). For rooms quite tastefully decorated and furnished, the
price without bath (and at least 60% of the 40 rooms here are
without bath) is only 35 guilders ($17.50) per person in a
twin, 34 guilders ($17) per person in a triple, 32 guilders
($16) per person in a quad, only 31 guilders ($15.50) per per-
son in a five-bedded 'dorm', inclusive of free showers and a
ham-and-egg breakfast. One or two singles sell for an
astonishing 45 guilders ($22.50), and you should try to get
the particularly attractive room 14 if you're traveling
alone. After enjoying that room, you'll take the morning
meal in a street-level dining area serviced by waitresses
dressed in traditional apron-frocks and white lace caps; and
the amenities also include a small bar kept open until the
last guest comes home (beers and genever for 2r50 guilders),
tended by a young Dutch woman named Irmelin. Owners
are a friendly Dutch couple. From the Central Station, take
tram 4,16 or 25 to the Prinsengracht stop (one of the major,
semi-circular canals coursing through Amsterdam), and
walk two minutes from there to this highly recommended
choice.
Arthur Frommer Frommer's Europe on $30 a day, © 1988 Prentice Hall
147