0027 Roncal is another AOC cheese made in northern
Spain from raw ewes’ milk acidified by the adventi-
tious microflora. The curds/whey mixture is cooked
to * 37–40
C and the curds then allowed to settle to
the bottom of the vat. The whey isremoved slowly and
the curds pressed against the sides of the vat, molded,
pressed, and dry-salted. Roncal is smoked and ripened
at 6–8
C and 100% ERH for 45–50 days.
0028 La Serena is a hard cheese made in western Spain
from ewes’ milk. Traditionally, raw milk is used, but
pasteurized milk is now used for large-scale produc-
tion. The milk is coagulated at * 30
C with rennet
extracted from the thistle, Cynara cardunculus. The
flat cylindrical cheeses are dry-salted for * 24 h and
ripened for about 2 months at ambient temperature
(10–18
C).
0029 Sa
˜
o Jorge is an AOC cheese produced on a small
scale from raw cows’ milk on the island, Sa
˜
o Jorge, in
the Azores. The milk is coagulated using calf rennet,
and acidification of the curd depends on the activity
of the indigenous adventitious microflora. The
pressed cheeses are ripened at 10–12
C for up to 12
months and, being made from raw milk, develop a
strong, piquant flavor. The cheese, which is con-
sidered to resemble Cheddar, has been the subject of
very little study.
0030 Leyden and Friesian are hard cheeses produced in
The Netherlands. Leiden is made from partially
skimmed milk, has a flat cylindrical shape, weighs
8–12 kg, and is matured for 6–12 months. Its texture
is dry and hard (artisanal, * 30% FDM; commercial,
40% FDM), and it is flavored with cumin seeds.
Traditional Friesian cheese is similar to Leiden and
is made from partially skimmed raw milk. It has a
very hard texture and * 20% FDM. It may be made
without spices, with cumin, or with cumin and cloves.
Today, most Friesian cheese is made from fresh,
pasteurized, partly skimmed milk, acidified using a
mesophilic culture.
Semihard Varieties
0031 The ‘semihard’ group of cheeses is rather arbitary
and heterogeneous, and the distinction between it
and other groups, e.g., hard cheeses, smear-ripened
varieties or pasta filata cheeses, is not clear-cut. Semi-
hard cheeses include Colby and Monterey (stirred-
curd Cheddar-type cheeses), some British Territorial
varieties (Caerphilly, Lancashire, and Wensleydale),
Bryndza (Slovakia), and Mahon and Majorero
(Spain).
0032 Caerphilly, which originated in Wales, is a crumbly,
acidic cheese made from pasteurized cows’ milk using
calf rennet and a mesophilic starter. The curds are
cooked to 32–34
C and held at this temperature for
about 1 h. The whey is drawn off and the curds held
in the vat where rapid acidification occurs. Salt (1%)
is added to the curds before molding and pressing
overnight. The pressed curds are brine-salted for
24 h, packaged, and ripened at 10–13
C for 10–14
days.
0033Lancashire is made from cows’ milk using calf
rennet and a mesophilic starter. The curds and whey
are not cooked, but the drained curds are cheddared
and held overnight for acidification. The next day,
fresh curds are mixed with the acidified curds and
the mixture milled to promote uniformity, dry-salted,
molded, pressed, and ripened at 13–18
C for 3–12
weeks.
0034Wensleydale cheese, which originated in Yorkshire,
England, is made from cows’ milk, inoculated with a
mesophilic starter; the curds are cooked at 32–34
C.
The bed of drained curds is broken to assist whey
drainage, dry-salted, molded, and pressed lightly.
Wensleydale, which is matured for c. 1 month at
*12
C, has mechanical openings and a mild, acidic
taste. A blue variant is produced also.
0035Two stirred-curd variants of Cheddar cheese are
recognized: Colby and Monterey. The manufacture
of Colby, which originated in the USA, follows a
protocol similar to Cheddar until after cooking,
when some whey is removed and replaced by cold
water, which reduces the lactose content and pH, and
increases the moisture content of the cheese. The
curds/whey mixture is stirred and most of the whey
removed; the curds and remaining whey are stirred
vigorously and the remaining whey drained off. The
drained curds are stirred until the pH reaches * 5.4,
when they are dry-salted, molded, pressed, and
ripened for 2–3 months at 3–4
C. Colby contains
less than 40% moisture and 50% FDM.
0036Monterey (Monterey Jack) cheese was first made in
California and is similar to Colby. The cheese, which
contains < 44% moisture and 50% FDM, is allowed
to form a rind before waxing or packaging in a plastic
film. Monterey, which is ripened for 5–7 weeks at
* 4
C, has many mechanical openings.
0037Bryndza is made from sheep’s milk coagulated with
rennet (with significant lipase activity) and acidified
by the adventitious microflora of the milk or by a
mesophilic starter. The curds are allowed to settle to
the bottom of the vat, most of the whey is removed,
and the curds are consolidated manually into lumps,
which are placed into cloth bags and stored until
sufficient acidity develops (about 3 days). The fresh
cheese is known as Hrudka and may be sold locally.
However, most Hrudka is transferred to a central
factory, where it is broken up, salted, passed between
granite rollers to a smooth paste, packed in poly-
thene-lined wooden tubs, and matured.
1078 CHEESES/Manufacture of Hard and Semi-hard Varieties of Cheese