
Family, Food, and Education 109
It was also a fact that France needed to increase its population, since
the number of young men in particular was declining as they marched
off to become cannon fodder. Banners carried by processions of patriotic
women through the streets of Paris declared: “Citizens, give children to
the Patrie! Their happiness is assured!”
5
In the late 1790s and early 1800s, as the political mood shifted toward
the right, the courts once again tightened the boundaries around fami-
lies, curtailing, for example, revolutionary promises to illegitimate chil-
dren, who now lost the right of inheritance. Under Napoleon, divorce
was more diffi cult to obtain, especially for women. A husband could
sue for divorce from an adulterous wife, but a wife could seek divorce
against the husband’s wishes only if he maintained a mistress in the fam-
ily house. In 1816, under the restoration monarchy, divorce was abol-
ished altogether.
FOOD
Comparing English food to French, Arthur Young found to his surprise
the best roast beef not at home in England but in Paris.
6
He also spoke
about the astonishing variety given to any dish by French cooks through
their rich sauces, which gave vegetables a fl avor lacking in boiled English
greens. In France, at least four dishes were presented at meals (for every
one dish in England), and a modest or small French table was incompara-
bly better than its English equivalent. In addition, in France, every dinner
included dessert, large or small, even if it consisted only of an apple or a
bunch of grapes. No meal was complete without it.
Describing the dining process in high society, Young said that a ser-
vant stood beside the chair when the wine was served and added to it
the desired amount of water. A separate glass was set out for each variety
of drink. As for table linen, he considered the French linen cleaner than
the English. To dine without a napkin (serviette) would be bizarre to a
Frenchman, but in England, at an upper-class table, this item would often
be missing.
7
By the mid-eighteenth century, a small meal, the déjeuner, consisting of
at least café au lait or plain milk and bread or rolls and butter had spread
across all classes. Workers and others whose days began early had their
déjeuner (breaking the overnight fast) about nine in the morning. More
substantial meals at this hour included cheese and fruit and, on occasion,
meat. It seems likely that they took something lighter and earlier, and this
became known as the “little breakfast” or le petit déjeuner.
In 1799, Madame de Genlis wrote a phrasebook for upper-class travelers
in which she gave the names for quite a large variety of foods consumed at
breakfast, including drinks (tea, chocolate, coffee), butter, breads (wheat,
milk, black rye), eggs, cream, sugar (powdered, lump, sugar candy), salt
(coarse or fi ne), pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, mustard, anchovies, capers,