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have influenced fashion in society in general. In
the 1980s and 1990s, newcomers such as
Gaultier arguably started to blur distinctions
between the fashion of la grande société (high
society) and that of ordinary French citizens.
Ironically, French haute couture has long been
dependent on foreign designers such as
Gianfranco Ferré at Dior, Karl Lagerfeld and,
most recently, the Britons Galliano (Givenchy,
then Dior), McQueen (Givenchy) and
McCartney (Lagerfeld), and since the 1970s a
Japanese influence has derived from Kenzo and
Issey Miyake. French fashion is linked closely
to the visual arts, continuing the cross-fertiliza-
tion established by Cartier-Bresson in photog-
raphy and, in cinema, by Chanel who provided
costumes for Renoir’s La Règie du jeu, and
Cocteau’s postwar La Belle et la bête (Beauty
and the Beast). In 1997, Gaultier’s futuristic
frocks adorned, for example, Besson’s The Fifth
Element (Le Cinquième Élément). Fashion also
plays a key role in the world of French publish-
ing, in the form of top-of-the-range women’s
magazines such as Jardin des modes (circula-
tion 12,000) and Vogue (84,000). Another cru-
cial element of the fashion industry, often for-
gotten, is perfume. The perfume trade employs
some 30,000 in 220 companies, the largest of
which are linked to major fashion houses such
as Patou, Dior and Givenchy. Despite the con-
tinuing celebrity of supermodels and designers,
the haute couture industry is now, however,
questioning its future, facing public scepticism
about its ethics and role: Balenciaga reputedly
lost faith in fashion because ‘there was no-one
left to dress’, and the managing director of YSL
has predicted that haute couture will disappear
at the death of Yves Saint Laurent himself.
The rise of prêt à porter clothing, derived
from high-society fashion, is one of the ways
in which fashion has become progressively
democratized in postwar France; this branch
of the industry employs some 50,000 in 2,000
companies. Azzedine Alaïa, Balenciaga,
Cerruti, Gaultier, Kenzo, Lagerfeld, Rykiel and
Mugler all produce lines carrying their own
labels (griffé) for the general public beyond the
diminishing 3,000 or so clients worldwide for
haute couture. This aspect of fashion has been
spread by high readership women’s magazines
such as Elle (circulation 340,000), and Marie-
Claire (544,000), and well-known mail-order
clothing companies such as Les Trois Suisses
(8 million) and La Redoute (6 million) have
helped ‘decentralize’ the experience of fashion
from its source in the Place Vendôme in Paris,
governed by the Chambre Syndicale de la Cou-
ture Parisienne, to the furthest reaches of pro-
vincial France (la France profonde). Since the
1980s, Les Trois Suisses has popularized styles
by Rykiel, Gaultier and Alaïa and, in 1996,
La Redoute celebrated its thirtieth anniversary
by bringing YSL’s famous women’s dinner
jacket (le smoking—itself launched in 1966)
to a mass market for the first time. As well as
mail order, an important role in the spread of
fashion styles and a salient feature of the eve-
ryday experience of buying clothes has been
the famous grands magasins (department
stores). Stores like Prisunic, Printemps and
Galeries Lafayette have popularized styles and
designs launched by the fashion houses at ac-
cessible prices. As the antithesis of haute cou-
ture, the famous Tati shops have provided low-
price clothing for the masses (the best-known
branch is in the Paris working-class/immigrant
quarter of of Barbès-Rochechouart), even if in
the 1990s they have offered a special range of
styles designed by Azzedine Alaïa significantly
entitled La rue c’est a nous (The street is ours).
Another quantitatively important aspect of
everyday fashion is the role played by hyper-
markets, such as Leclerc and Mammouth, in
providing value-for-money apparel for the man
and woman in the street.
The extension of ‘Parisian’ style through
prêt à porter griffé, the influence of haute cou-
ture on the clothes industry in general (la con-
fection), and social and geographical mobility
and prosperity have attenuated some dispari-
ties in clothing worn by the French. Concomi-
tant with the modernization of French society
it is now rarer to see the little old ladies, toutes
de noir vêtues (all in black), who symbolized
the Latin urban-rural divide, now arguably in
retreat. Although regional singularities of dress
have all but disappeared (save for self-con-
scious displays of ‘folklore’ destined for
fashion