460 CULTURAL LIFE
Sasaki Doyo, a
shugo
from Omi Province. At parties held at Doyo's
residence, the seating places were lavishly adorned with leopard and
tiger skins, damask, and gold brocade, and works of art were ostenta-
tiously displayed. Guests were regaled with munificent quantities of
food and sake, and there
was
music, singing, and dancing. The parties
(which were said to project a glitter not unlike the "radiance of a
thousand Buddhas") also included gambling in the form of
tdcha
or
tea-judging contests.
17
Tea had first been introduced to Japan from China in the early
Heian period, but tea drinking was not permanently accepted by the
Japanese until after its reintroduction by the Zen priest Eisai in the
late twelfth century. By the Muromachi period, all classes in Japan
drank tea. The
tdcha
were contests in which the participants, backed
by wagers, sought to identify the tea of
Togano'o,
a place northwest of
Kyoto where the most highly regarded tea of that time was grown, by
drinking from unmarked cups that contained it as well as the products
of other tea-producing regions.
18
As we shall see,
tdcha
was the precur-
sor to the classical tea ceremony
(chanoyu)
of later Muromachi times.
Another connotation of
basara
was exoticism, manifested especially
in this age by the desire to acquire works of art and craft
{karamono)
from China. There had been a hiatus in relations with the continent
following the Mongol invasions of Japan in the late thirteenth century.
But the Ashikaga, beginning with the bakufu's founder, Takauji,
gradually renewed trade with China, which was formalized and made
official from the time of the third shogun, Yoshimitsu (1358-1408).
Much of the story of the importance of this trade in cultural terms
belongs to the chapter on the
gozan
(Chapter 13), because until the late
fifteenth century, the Zen monks of these temples managed most of
the trade under the sponsorship of
the
bakufu. In addition to trading,
the
gozan
Zen monks also inquired eagerly into Chinese art, literature,
and scholarship. But for our discussion the most important aspect of
the new China trade was the
karamono,
including paintings, calli-
graphic scrolls, ceramic wares, fine porcelains, and lacquerware
brought to Japan in ever-greater quantities beginning in the mid-
fourteenth century.
People like Sasaki Doyo vied aggressively for
karamono
and dis-
17 These contests were a form of monoawase or "comparison of things" and had been popular
from at least the Heian period, when the courtiers engaged in a great variety of monoawase,
from the comparison or judgment of things such as flowers, incense, roots, and seashells to
artistic creations such as poems and paintings.
iS By the end of the fourteenth century, Uji had replaced Togano'o as the leading tea-producing
region of Japan.
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