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Nizhnii Novgorod in the nineteenth century
of 200 million roubles, and an attendance of 1.5 million;
10
the greatest volume
of trade was in tea, cotton, fish and metal.
11
But aggregate trade statistics
capture only a fraction of the life of the Nizhnii Novgorod Fair, which had
moved upriver from its old site at Makariev following a fire there in 1817.
12
No stock exchange existed until late in the century, so that – in stark contrast
to the commodities market in Chicago, for example (in some ways Nizhnii
Novgorod’s American equivalent) – goods had to be physically transported in
order to be saleable.
13
Transactions took place, again until a new generation
took over, through an elaborate informal network of friendships, marriages
and deals sealed in smoky riverfront taverns. In his history of the daily life of
the Fair, A. P. Melnikov describes the Madeira-lubricated rituals by which a
debtor, unable to meet his obligations, appeases his creditor.
14
An 1877 guide-
book directs the visitor towards the Siberian wharf, where he can sample
teas for hours; the multi million rouble Iron Line; the odorous Greben’ wharf,
piled high with dried fish; and the Grain wharf. Paperweights made from Urals
minerals, silver pistols from the Caucasus, exquisite Ferghana and Khorasan
rugs, Tula samovars, books typeset in Old Russian, icons, crosses, ginger-
bread, sheepskin coats, felt boots, lace and Tatar soap vied for the visitor’s
attention. Equally usefully, the guidebook counsels him to avoid the pseudo-
Asian ornamentation of the Chinese Row, where no one from China had
ever traded; the Fashion Lane housing a number of brand-name establish-
ments including the ‘inevitable’ Salzfisch; and the variety of theatres, circuses,
zoos and freak shows that held no surprises for the sophisticated Western
traveller.
15
The Nizhnii Novgorod Fair functioned as an irreplaceable stimulus to the
local economy as well. Where else could local sheepskin processors have
bought Persian merlushka (lambskin) and Riga ovchina (sheepskin) – the top of
the line for sheepskin manufacture
16
; local spoon-makers have bought palm
10 A. P. Melnikov, Ocherki bytovoi istorii nizhegorodskoi iarmarki (1817–1917) (repr. NN: Izd.
AO ‘Nizhegorodskii komp’iuternyi tsentr pol’zovatelei’, 1993), p. 108.
11 Vsepoddanneishii otchet Nachal’nika Nizhegorodskoi gubernii za 1871 god (manuscript), Rossi-
iskaia istoricheskaia biblioteka, Moscow.
12 Rumours of arson abounded.
13 Melnikov, Ocherki,p.64.
14 Melnikov, Ocherki,pp.97–101. His father, Melnikov-Pecherskii, imparts a similar flavour
in the negotiations between Smolokurov and the fish merchants, in Na gorakh,asthe
former, privy to information from St Petersburg on seal prices, tries to outwit his
colleagues.
15 A. S. Gatsiskii, Nizhegorodka (NN: Tip. gubernskogo pravleniia, 1877), pp. 190–5.
16 ‘Promysly sela Bol’shogo Murashkina’, in ‘Kustarnye promysly nizhegorodskoi gubernii:
Kniaginskii uezd,’ Nizhegorodskii sbornik (NN: Tip. nizhegorodskogo gubernskogo
pravleniia, 1890), vol. IX, pp. 242–3.
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