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3,280 feet (500 to 1,000 m) above sea level, are home to Dushanbe (pop-
ulation: 523,000), Tajikistan’s capital and largest city. It was in Dushanbe
during the spring of 1992 where clashes between opponents and support-
ers of the government escalated into civil war. As of early 2003, six years
after the end of the civil war, the city remained a dangerous place, espe-
cially at night. It still is the scene of bombings, gun battles, kidnapings,
and murders involving rival clans, political groups, or criminal gangs
avenging old scores or beginning new battles.
Fast-flowing rivers tumble down Tajikistan’s mountains, many ending
up as tributaries of the Amu Darya or Syr Darya. The Amu Darya is
formed in the country’s southwestern corner at the confluence of the
Vakhsh, Panj, and Kofarhihon Rivers. Together the Panj and the Amu
Darya mark much of the long Tajik-Afghan border. The Syr Darya enters
Tajikistan in the far northeast and cuts through Tajikistan’s section of the
Fergana Valley for about 120 miles (195 km) before reentering Uzbek-
istan. Nineteen dams have been built on Tajikistan’s rivers, including the
huge Nurek Dam on the Vakhsh River. There are nine major reservoirs
in the country, the largest of which is behind the Nurek Dam. A major
new hydroelectric dam, begun during the Soviet era but not finished
because of funding problems, currently is under construction again, with
the help of Russian and Iranian financing.
Tajikistan has about 1,700 lakes, three-quarters of them more than
10,000 feet (3,000 m) above sea level. The largest is Lake Karakul (Black
Lake), which rests more than 13,700 feet (4,200 m) above sea level in a
depression formed by a meteor about 10 million years ago. The lake is in
the Pamirs near the point where Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, and China meet.
Salty and lifeless, it is frozen and covered with snow much of the year.
Another lake in the Pamirs with much more recent origins, Lake
Sarez, is best known because of the apocalyptic threat it poses to about 5
million people. The lake dates from 1911. An earthquake caused a moun-
tain side to collapse, creating a massive landslide that dammed the Mur-
gap River below. A large lake 40 miles long collected behind nature’s new
mud-and-stone dam. It is 1,500 feet high and nearly 2.5 miles wide. An
international team of geologists inspected the dam in 1999 and found
that it is already leaking and could collapse from another earthquake.
Should that happen (the Pamirs are an earthquake zone), the floodwaters
will sweep away villages not only in Tajikistan, but in Uzbekistan,
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