Spices and Sugar
672
the scale of fashion and did not fi gure much in the most luxurious recipes.
Cooks knew that their diners wanted expense and display.
The spices imported from the Far East were pepper, cloves, nutmeg,
mace, cinnamon, cardamom, and ginger. These had been imported since
Roman times, shipped to Middle Eastern ports and then into the Mediter-
ranean Sea, but the supply dwindled to an expensive trickle during the years
of barbarian invasions. After Muslim Arabs conquered most of the Medi-
terranean, shipping and travel became more dangerous, and spices were
scarcer and more expensive. Only the richest could afford the few spices
that still entered Europe. But in 1099, the First Crusade set up a king-
dom in Palestine and its surrounding fortress cities, such as Antioch. For
the next 200 years, knights, masons, merchants, and other workers fl owed
back and forth to support this kingdom. Trade in spices soared. Venice,
Genoa, and other maritime cities obtained exclusive trade contracts for cer-
tain routes and places, while those places became wealthy by charging fees.
Alexandria, Egypt, was one of the main hubs of the spice trade.
The most popular imported spice of the Middle Ages was pepper, and
Europe was never entirely without pepper even during the years of most
privation. Pepper’s use was restricted to the aristocracy, though. It took a
greater supply and a lowered price for pepper and other spices to become
part of commoners’ lives. When the spice trade was reestablished follow-
ing the Crusades, spices became more common and were available to some
well-to-do merchants and craftsmen. In the later Middle Ages, after 1350,
as pepper became more available to the common man, it lost fashion among
the rich. Fewer recipes used pepper. By the close of the Middle Ages, pep-
per was viewed as the spice of the poor.
Medieval recipes were generously spiced. Sauces for meat included not
only salt and pepper, but also ginger, cinnamon, cloves, mace, cardamom,
and saffron, and often all at once. The wealthy, whose households kept
records still in existence today, purchased spices in staggering quantities.
Their cooks used upward of a pound of assorted spices a day to make their
stockpots of stews and sauces for the castle’s household. While some meat
and fi sh were eaten fresh, much of it had been salted, and this saltiness was
probably the driving force behind recipes that chopped meat fi ne, mixed
it with other ingredients, and drowned its taste in spices. Fresh meat, too,
such as venison or pork, was stewed or dipped into sauces seasoned with
cinnamon and ginger.
Many history books say spices were used to cover the taste of spoiled
meat or fi sh, but this does not hold up in a closer examination. Medieval
cooks and diners were aware that eating spoiled meat made people sick,
although their ideas of the mechanisms of food spoiling seem quaint and
were too heavily focused on the smells and bad air. Spices were probably
used as preservatives, and spoiled meat could be a problem, but merchants