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10 Elizabeth Foyster and Christopher A. Whatley
was, in most years, an adequate supply of a narrow range of basic foodstuffs
that offered little by way of stimulation for the ordinary Scot’s taste buds.
As Stana Nenadic shows in Chapter 5, oats and oatmeal were by far the most
prominent constituents; the average adult male needed to consume some 37
ounces a day to do a day’s work. Farinaceous foods accounted for at least
half of the typical labouring family’s expenditure, and became more rather
than less important over the period 1600–1800. Oatmeal was supplemented
with peas and beans and, when available, with some butter, cheese, milk and
cabbage, but little meat. Fish was eaten by those living in coastal locations,
when they could be caught, and in the northern isles were dried for winter
use. But the everyday staple throughout, was oatmeal – and water, perhaps
some milk and salt – eaten, variously, as porridge, brose, sowens and oat-
cakes.
33
Potatoes were introduced as a supplement, and in some northern
and western districts became the principal element in the diet of the labour-
ing poor, as will be seen below. In the Lowlands they were resorted to as the
principal source of calories in emergency. In favoured localities by the early
1790s, the diets of the labouring classes had become more varied, and might
include milk and cheese, tea, wheaten bread and some meat. For many of
the rest, however, diets were not only dull but they were probably also peri-
odically defi cient in terms of key nutrients – calcium and vitamins A and C,
the last found in fresh vegetables, for example. It was the urban elites – the
middle and upper classes – of towns like Edinburgh who enjoyed the benefi ts
of fruit and vegetable consumption on a regular basis. Allowing for seasonal
variations, of course, there was a continuously strong market for items like
artichokes, herbs, radishes, strawberries, gooseberries, apricots, plums and
peaches from the 1690s through to the 1760s, and occasional arrivals of
luxury fruits such as lemons and oranges.
34
Imports of this kind, in chests
holding up to 10,000 fruits – as well as olive oil, fi gs and wines – were not
exclusive to Edinburgh, but were regular sights in port towns like Aberdeen,
Dundee and Montrose.
35
Scotland’s integration within the British empire
in the eighteenth century, Nenadic tells us, brought the possibility of exotic
imports of food and clothing, which were consumed with much pleasure
and ostentation by, for example, the colonial merchants of Glasgow. For
those fortunate enough to have sheltered, mainly walled gardens – lairds,
tenant farmers, successful urban merchants with a suburban villa – a range
of seasonal produce was available: lettuce, beetroot, parsnips and radishes,
for instance, as well as apples, gooseberries and other fruit.
But in the Highlands and Islands of the north and west, where as much as
half of the population was to be found prior to the middle of the eighteenth
century, life was lived with the lingering spectre of crop failure in the most
challenging of natural environments. For long spells, land and people were
rain sodden and battered by severe winter winds; the region’s geography
and comparative isolation exacerbating the diffi culties posed by an increas-
ing dependence upon meal imported from the south in return for black
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