knowledge of Timur's court. He left Cadiz on May 22, 1403, traveled
via Constantinople, Trebizond, Erzerum, Tabriz, Tehran (here first
mentioned by a European), Nishapur, and Mashhad, and reached Samarkand
on August 31, 1404. He had with some reason expected to find there
only a horde of hideous butchers. He was astonished at the size and
prosperity of Timur's capital, the splendor of the mosques and
palaces, the excellent manners of the upper class, the wealth and
luxury of the court, the concourse of artists and poets celebrating
Timur. The city itself, then over 2,000 years old, had some 150,000
inhabitants, and "most noble and beautiful houses," and many palaces
"embowered among trees"; altogether, and not including the extensive
suburbs, Clavijo reckoned Samarkand to be "rather larger than
Seville." Water was piped into the houses from a river that ran by the
city, and irrigation canals greened the hinterland. There the air
was fragrant with orchards and vineyards; sheep grazed, cattle ranged,
lush crops grew. In the town were factories that made artillery,
armor, bows, arrows, glass, porcelain, tiles, and textiles of
unsurpassed brilliance, including the kirimze or red dye that gave
its name to crimson. Working in shops or fields, dwelling in houses of
brick or clay or wood, or taking their ease urbanely on the
riverside promenade, were Tatars, Turks, Arabs, Persians, Iraqi,
Afghans, Georgians, Greeks, Armenians, Catholics, Nestorians,
Hindus, all freely practicing their rites and preaching their
contradictory creeds. The principal streets were bordered with
trees, shops, mosques, academies, libraries, and an observatory; a
great avenue ran in a straight line from one end of the city to the
other, and the main section of this thoroughfare was covered with
glass. `063026
Clavijo was received by the Tatar emperor on September 8. He
passed through a spacious park "wherein were pitched many tents of
silk," and pavilions hung with silk embroideries. The tent was the
usual abode of the Tatar; Timur himself, in this park, had a tent
300 feet in circumference. But there were palaces there too, with
floors of marble or tile, and sturdy furniture inset with precious
stones or sometimes altogether made of silver or gold. Clavijo found
the monarch seated cross-legged on silken cushions "under the portal
of a most beautiful palace," facing a fountain that threw up a