called him the satin cook; for he went into his kitchen, where they put an apron on him and he
meddled with
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everything. . . . He was, so to speak, a pedant of good eating, for he was a slave to the proper
ordering of his dishes."[114]
Bernay was eccentric but not unique, for gastronomy formed a central part of the new standards
of elegance that characterized mid-seventeenth-century Paris. Good food became a subject for
books and for boasting in polite society. The marquise de Sablé, reported Tallemant, "claims that
there is no one with such delicate taste as she, and that she has no use for those who do not
appreciate fine things. She is always inventing some new foolishness."[115] Regnard included
mockery of gastronomic excess in his comedy Le Joueur, suggesting how widespread the theme
had become in the late seventeenth century: "So it's this magistrate, . . . this Doctor of Suppers,
who dozes in court but pronounces sentence on the stew; who judges without appeal on wines of
Champagne—is it from Rheims, the Clos, or the Montagne? who, never encumbered with books
of law, carries cookbook and ground pepper in his pocket."[116] Boisrobert made fun of the
exigent delicacy of a group known as the côteaux, about whom a fellow epicure complained
"that in France there are not four hillsides whose wine they approve of. . . . He criticized two
rather sharply, that is, Sablé and Saint-Evremond, as people who found nothing good, and who in
their lives hadn't given a glass of water to anyone."[117] Elegant gastronomic discriminations,
these examples suggested, involved an anti-Christian concern with the physical world, a failure
of civic duties, and a more fundamental failure of charity, a mocking, critical view of those who
did not meet the new standards of behavior. Its essence was critical distance from others.
Still more disturbing to moralists, of course, was the fact that elegance was so often associated
with illicit sexuality. "At that time," remembered the duc de Bouillon of the 1550s and 1560s,
"there was a custom that it was inappropriate for a young man of good maison not to have a
mistress. They were not chosen by the young men them-
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selves, still less because of affection, but, rather, were either given by some relative or superior
or themselves chose the young men by whom they wished to be served." His own mistress
"became very careful for me, correcting everything that I did that seemed to her inappropriate,
indiscreet, or uncivil. . . . No other person helped so much to introduce me to the world and to
give me the manners of the court."[118] A century later, Ninon de L'Enclos claimed to perform a
similar role, introducing young men to elegant manners and thought.[119] Women were essential
to the court, attracting men to it and shaping their behavior; erotic relations readily followed.
Moralists pointed to other ways in which elegance stimulated the senses. Late in life, with the
enthusiasm of the reformed sinner, Bussy-Rabutin urged that court dancing be prohibited: "[I]n
those places, . . . the beautiful objects, the lights, the violins, and the excitement of the dance
would enflame a hermit. . . . I hold that one must not go to a ball if one is a Christian."[120]
Elegant entertainments, so Bussy's complaint ran, did not produce self-control; on the contrary,
they risked producing dangerous freedom.
The fashion of masked balls early in Louis XIV's personal reign expressed as well the liberating
implications of elegance. Contemporaries saw this liberation clearly and found it highly
pleasurable. "It's a new style of ball, and quite agreeable," reported the duc d'Enghien to an
absent friend. "[E]veryone at court comes disguised . . . so that one is not at all known, and one
dances sometimes for an hour without recognizing anyone whom one sees. . . . [S]ometimes
rather amusing adventures occur."[121] A year later the fashion continued, and Enghien