Birmingham, who visited Kashmir in April .
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Robert Shadforth of
Top Deck bus tours has taken tourists to Kashmir, as part of a tour from
Nepal to London, twice a year, with the exception of . Sylvain Soudain
takes select parties of Europeans heli-skiing. Their main problem was not the
insurgency but the government-run Centaur hotel on the outskirts of Srinagar
which lacked basic facilities and hygiene.
The record numbers of nearly , foreign tourists who visited the
valley in were reduced to about , in . Isolated incidents of
kidnapping foreigners who were either working in Kashmir or had come as
tourists, as well as the rape of a Canadian girl in October by two army
officers, acted as an obvious deterrent. So too the militarisation of the valley
and the paradox of enjoying a holiday, while the local people were subjected
to crackdowns and crossfiring. The lack of tourists, of course, meant that
the business of the local Kashmiris suffered accordingly: houseboat owners,
the Hanjis, who, for generations have managed the houseboats, the shikara
wallahs, taxi drivers, tonga drivers, hotel owners, and those who depended
on selling their handicrafts to visiting tourists, all lost what was the only
avenue of income open to them. ‘This houseboat which used to be so popular
is now nearly gone,’ said Iqbal Chapra, founder president of the Houseboat
Owners Association.
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‘We pray for peace in our valley and then the tourists
will come,’ said Muhammed Kotru, president of the Houseboat Owners
Association in .
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Only the privileged few have been able to continue
to export and sell carpets, handicrafts and embroidery throughout India and
abroad. A Kashmiri Pandit who fled from the valley maintains that some
Muslim Kashmiris are now better off because they no longer have to go
through the Hindus as middlemen.
In the attention of the Western media was focused on the valley
because two men, one of whom was the son of former Financial Times
journalist David Housego, were kidnapped. The Housego family were on
holiday in Kashmir to celebrate Jenny Housego’s fiftieth birthday. On June,
when they reached the village of Aru, after three days in the mountains near
Pahalgam, they were held up and robbed of money, watches and clothing.
They were taken to a hotel where they met another couple David and Cathy
Mackie who were also being held at gun point. They too had been trekking
in the mountains. The militants took the Housegos’ son, Kim, , and David
Mackie, , leaving the Housego parents and Cathy Mackie to negotiate
through a series of intermediaries for their release. After their release
seventeen days later, Mackie made some revealing comments about the
militants: ‘They had heard on the BBC that I had a bad knee and next
morning provided me with a stick and detailed one of the party to stay close
to me. I was allowed to walk at my own pace.’
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‘They made sure we had
the best places by the camp fire,’ said Kim Housego. ‘They listened to the
BBC Urdu service and translated for us.’
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Harkat-ul Ansar were held
responsible for the kidnapping, which was believed to have been a mistake.