Poelzl V. Culture Shock! Portugal: A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette
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CultureShock! Portugal
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Registering with your Consulate
It is a good idea for any foreign national to register with their
consulate after arriving in Portugal. This will make it easier
to help you in case your passport is stolen, or in case you
need other assistance from your consulate. If your passport
is lost or stolen, report the incident to your consulate as soon
as possible. Your consulate may also be able to assist you
with fi nding medical help and with forwarding money from
your family back home.
SETTING UP HOME
Settling in a new country is a lengthy and often stressful
process. It is not only about leaving your old home behind
and tying up loose ends, but also about successfully settling
at your new location. This section provides some guidelines
to make this important step of setting up home in Portugal
a little easier.
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Looking for Housing
Unless you have contacts or an employer who will assist you
with your apartment search, the newspaper classifi cados
(classifi eds) will be your best choice in your search for
housing. Check under habitações (apartments), moradias
(homes), quartos (rooms) or casas (houses), or look for the
Alugam-se (for rent) or arrendamento (rental) heading. You
will fi nd a large selection of available rentals with numerous
options: furnished or unfurnished, with or without garage,
with or without a fully equipped kitchen, central heating or
no heating at all. Mediadoras imobiliárias (real estate agencies)
may also be able to assist you in fi nding an apartment or
home. When describing the size of an apartment, the term
assoalhada is frequently used and means ‘room’.
Apartment Sizes
Apartment sizes are often abbreviated with the letter T followed
by a number that indicates the number of bedrooms. T0 (T zero)
is a studio apartment or
estúdio (with no separate bedroom),
T1 is a one-bedroom apartment with living room and kitchen, T2
is a two- bedroom apartment with living room and kitchen, and
so on.
General Considerations
The main consideration for renting a house in any city should
be its location. In Lisbon and Porto especially, commuter time
is an important factor when looking for an apartment. If you
are a student or know where you will work, you can pick a
location that is close to your university or job. Also keep in
mind the distance to commercial areas, shopping centres,
and to parks or playgrounds if you have children. Find out
about public transportation, especially if you don’t have a
vehicle. And if you have a car, fi nd out if a garage is available.
Parking is a nightmare in Portugal’s cities, and living close
to public transportation is essential. Since streets are often
congested and buses and trams move slowly, living close
to a metro or commuter train in Lisbon and Porto will save
you a lot of time. Also keep in mind the noise factor, when
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selecting a home, and be aware of busy streets with traffi c
going by day and night.
Location, Location
A friend of mine lived in an apartment close to Lisbon’s cathedral
and several other churches, and sleeping in on Sunday morning was
impossible because of the chimes.
Apartments in older buildings often have windows that
open out onto tiny courtyards, and noises from neighbours
above, below and across are easily heard. This is also true
for the smell of food, like fried sardines on a late Sunday
morning for example, when one might be getting ready to
enjoy a delicious cup of coffee. Fortunately, the Portuguese are
for the most part considerate and quiet people, and you will
rarely have to deal with more than just incidental noise.
There are a few peculiarities about the Portuguese
housing and rental market that foreigners should be aware
of. For one thing, single- family homes and houses to rent
are rare and diffi cult to fi nd. Most living situations that are
ready to be rented are apartments or condominiums in
apartment buildings or complexes. An increasingly popular
phenomenon are gated apartment complexes and high-rises,
complete with security guards and parking garages. This type
of living situation is comparatively expensive and is usually
located on the outskirts of cities in more affl uent suburbs.
Their low-income counterparts are the rather somber housing
projects scattered on the outskirts of Portugal’s cities, which
are best avoided. Portugal’s cities have hundreds of centrally
located older apartment buildings, but unfortunately few old
apartments are rented in a renovated state. Apartments in
older buildings are charming, with tall ceilings, large windows
and wrought-iron balconies, but they often involve a lot of
work to move in.
Central heating is very rare, and only available in some
new or renovated apartments. Apparently most people
don’t consider the winters long or cold enough to justify
such an investment, and they use electric space or portable
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gas heaters in their apartments. Other details to look out for
when looking at places to rent are cupboards, storage and
pantry space, a balcony (for hanging clothes) as well as hook
up for a washing machine.
The rental price of a house or apartment also refl ects the
overall reputation of the neighbourhood it is located in, and
you should look for an apartment in a safe neighbourhood
that you like. Expect substantial differences between an
unrenovated apartment in an older building, and a renovated
or even fairly new apartment. Rentals in urban areas are
also higher than in small towns, which is why a lot of people
from lower income groups live in the suburbs around Lisbon
and Porto.
The Rental Contract
Rental contracts are usually signed for at least a year, and
often for longer. If you plan to spend less time, you should
probably look for a sublet. It is customary for tenants to pay
a caução (security deposit), which is at least the value of one
month’s rent, possibly more. Some landlords require a fi ador
(guarantor), who will be responsible for rent payment, in
case the tenant fails to pay. Before signing a contract, make
sure you understand your rights and obligations in case
of an early termination of the contract and other disputes
that may arise. Most towns have an associação de inquilinos
(renters’ association) which helps renters with legal aspects
of contracts and rentals. Rent control laws are in effect all
over Portugal, and every year the government determines the
percentage of small rent increases, which usually corresponds
to the infl ation rate.
UTILITIES IN YOUR HOME
Water
Águas de Portugal, still controlled by the government,
provides running water to most households in Portugal.
Tap water is treated and is generally considered safe for
drinking. However, if you do not like the taste of treated water,
bottled drinking water is readily available at grocery shops.
Some towns in the interior suffer water shortages during
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summer droughts, and the water quality deteriorates during
this period.
Gas
The majority of Portuguese households use gas for cooking
and water heating, and most homes and apartments in
cities have access to gas lines. In smaller towns or rural areas
however, gas lines are not as common, and water heaters
and kitchen stoves are operated by large gas bottles that are
sold at petrol stations, shops or private homes.
Electricity
Electric power is provided by EDP, Energias de Portugal, S.A.
(http://www.edp.pt), once a government enterprise, but now
largely privatised. Power surges and blackouts do occur from
time to time, especially in small towns and remote areas,
but the power supply is generally very reliable. The electric
current in Portugal is 220 volts, 50 hertz. Portugal uses the
same type of plug as all of continental Europe.
Domestic Help
Although only affl uent families have full- time maids in
Portugal, household help ((known as mulher-a-dias) hired for
a day or two per week is quite common. Depending on your
situation and income level, this may be a suitable option for
you. Salary levels are very low in Portugal compared to most
other EU countries, and a maid (criada or mulher-a-dias) is
probably much more affordable in Portugal than in your
home country. If you decide to hire household help, it is best
to ask friends or co- workers for a recommendation, since it
is not always easy to fi nd reliable domestic help. Word of
mouth usually works better than the more offi cial way of
going through classifi ed ads or employment agencies.
INITIAL ADJUSTMENTS
Culture Shock in Portugal?
When I told friends that I was working on a book called
CultureShock! Portugal, many of them asked me: “Is it
possible to experience culture shock in Portugal?” Well, in
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fact, it is. Portugal is perhaps not drastically different from
other western European countries, but culture shock not
only manifests itself in countries where the locals paint their
faces, wear strange costumes and practice exotic religious
rites. Culture shock is an experience that becomes evident
in the little daily routines, and is made up of the many
small differences of daily life in another country. Culture
shock is the lack of familiarity, the lack of known places,
faces and customs. Culture shock gradually creeps up on the
newcomer, and usually happens after the initial excitement
has worn off. Overwhelmed by an unfamiliar culture and a
language they don’t understand, foreigners often react with
homesickness, stress and anxiety. While some degree of
culture shock is natural and inevitable, foreigners can avoid
a lot of adjustment diffi culties by planning well ahead.
Prepare Yourself
Among the fi rst steps to take, regardless of the purpose of
your stay in Portugal, is to learn the language. I met several
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foreign students in Lisbon who took an intensive language
course in Portugal before studying as an exchange student at
a university. They had a great advantage over those students
who only arrived in Portugal at the beginning of the academic
year. Similarly, for someone with a professional mission
in Portugal, it would be a good idea to study at least the
basics of the language before having to speak it. It is also
very helpful to get in-depth information about the country
you will be living in. The more you can fi nd out about the
Portuguese and their culture before your arrival, the easier
the adjustment period will be for you. Perhaps someone
you know has lived in Portugal, or you may know one of the
many Portuguese emigrants living abroad. Take advantage
of such contacts to ask questions and get a better idea of
what to expect. (The Resource Guide at the back of the book
lists recommended books and websites to further deepen your
knowledge about Portugal.)
Sharing Your Experiences
No matter if they are retirees, students or professionals,
most foreigners initially prefer the company of people from
their own cultural background and only gradually make
contact with the Portuguese. This is quite natural, since
most newcomers speak little Portuguese and are simply not
able to communicate well with the locals. Sharing their fi rst
impressions and experiences with other foreigners helps
them bridge this initial period of adjustment and deal better
with the frustrating aspects of living in Portugal. A good
example is probably the infl ated bureaucracy and the slight
but ever-so-present ineffi ciency that prevails in so many
aspects of public life.
Patience is a Virtue
A friend of mine was waiting in line at a Lisbon public transport offi ce
to apply for his monthly bus pass. When he got to the counter after
a long wait, he was told that they could not accept his application
because it was written in blue ink instead of black. Since none of the
employees could lend him a black pen, he had to leave and return
another day.
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What could be a better way to get over this experience
than to share it with your friends and laugh about it? While
such incidences are doubtlessly frustrating, it is important
to take your initial experiences lightly. Most of them are little
more than minor annoyances, and they are not worth losing
your sleep over. An open mind, a fair amount of patience
and a good sense of humour are probably your best survival
tools in Portugal. With a positive attitude, you will be able to
quickly disregard little daily annoyances and focus more on
the pleasant aspects of living in Portugal.
Meeting the Locals
Living in a foreign country and having little or no contact
with the locals is a missed opportunity. It is easy to remain
within the safe confi nes of an expatriate community, but if
the companionship of other expatriates is so essential, why
leave one’s home country in the fi rst place? It is not only
the climate and the scenery that make a country attractive.
It may sound redundant, but more than anything else, it
is the people that make the country what it is. If you like
Portuguese food, music or art, it is certainly worth meeting
the people who over the centuries have created the delicious
meals and wine, who have invented the cheerful folkloric
dances and built these marvellous churches and castles. No
doubt, meeting the local people is diffi cult at fi rst because
of the different language, but making local friends is always
a rewarding experience. By getting to know the locals, you
will gain a better understanding of the Portuguese people
and their culture, which will immensely enrich your time
in Portugal.
PORTUGAL FOR CHILDREN
Portugal must be one of the better countries in Europe
for children. Children are welcome everywhere and most
Portuguese are very tolerant and patient with children.
Portuguese children also seem to have a tad more freedom
to play where and how they please. Regardless of your
own approach to pedagogical issues, rest assured that
your children will be welcome in Portugal, and that they
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will be easily accepted by both Portuguese adults and the
local children they meet. Still, the adjustment to a new
environment will also be a challenge for your children, and
it is important to talk to them about the changes that await
them in Portugal. Maintaining some familiarities during this
transition is probably the best you can do. This will help them
get used to the new life without completely leaving their
favourite games, toys or activities. Depending on how long
you are planning to stay in Portugal, it may be a good idea
to expose them to Portuguese culture and language sooner
rather than later. The sooner your children have contact with
local children, the sooner they will be able to cope with the
language shock, make friends and start fi tting in.
EXPATRIATES IN PORTUGAL
About half of the 436,000 legal foreigners in Portugal are
immigrants from Africa and Brazil who come to Portugal
to work and save money, but there is also a considerable
expatriate population from the European Union who come
to Portugal for a variety of reasons.
Current Figures
In 2007, there were just under 116,000 EU citizens in Portugal,
mostly from Great Britain, Spain, France, Germany, the
Netherlands and citizens from countries recently admitted to the
EU, such as Romania and Bulgaria.
Lisbon certainly has the highest expatriate population
in Portugal, with communities of citizens from all western
European countries, as well as from North America and
Portuguese-speaking countries such as Cabo Verde, Angola
and Brazil. Lisbon and Coimbra also have a considerable
foreign student population, usually on a one-year student
exchange at a Portuguese university. There are about 36,000
foreign residents in the Algarve, over half of them from the EU.
With its mild climate, southern Portugal is especially popular
with senior citizens from Northern European countries during
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the winter months. Numerous foreigners, especially from
Great Britain and Germany, have settled in the Algarve to
retire or to open businesses related to tourism. Outside the
Algarve, Lisbon and Porto, there are only scattered foreign
residents in Portugal.
Making Contacts
Getting connected to an expatriate community is a good way
of making fi rst contacts in Portugal. Expatriates are usually
helpful to newcomers from their own culture or country, and
you might get important leads regarding housing or work and
receive useful advice and assistance. In the cities and towns
of the Algarve, the expatriate communities are fairly small
and people get to know each other quickly. In larger cities
such as Lisbon or Porto, you may need to pursue more formal
channels to make contacts with expatriates, possibly through
your consulate, Chamber of Commerce or English-speaking
social clubs. There are several websites and publications
for English-speaking residents in Portugal, which advertise
services, rental, work opportunities and contact information
for the expatriate community. The Resource Guide lists both
online and printed resources for expatriates in Portugal.
SHOPPING
Buying Groceries
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