from the USA, where computers dominate) to develop good hand and eye coordination.
They get a new experience during a work experience at Zandra Rhodes’ studio where
playing, experimenting and developing a drawing is their main occupation.
We looked at two drawings with watercolour, one of a stinging nettle and one of a cabbage
which were drawn just before she started at the Royal College of Art. Each piece had taken
over a week to complete and they hang in her dressing room amongst family photographs
and momentos. Zandras affection for these pieces and empathy with the subject shows a
real grounding of her working process in thoroughness.
The ideal time to draw now is on holiday. Zandra calls this sketching, although her sketch
books contain many drawings which have clearly taken much longer than the hour and a
half she suggests as being the least time she would spend on one piece. The difference
between ‘sketching’ and ‘drawing’ is a subject that we discuss briefly, mainly because the
term ‘sketching’ infuriates me. I can assure you that none of the work in Zandra's
sketchbooks comes under the term ‘sketch’ as I or many others would use it, as there is a
directness and clear focus with continued concentration of eye and hand on virtually every
page. Zandra has given herself many rules in drawing, one of which is ‘you must never tear
a page out’, and as I looked through the boxes of sketchbooks spanning over thirty years, I
bore witness to this having been an unbroken rule.
There are two types of sketchbooks. One type is Aquarelle Arches Watercolour blocks of
100% pure cotton, white paper (about A3) in size. They contain, amongst other things,
early ideas leading to the first designs for the famed punk safety pin dresses. These are still
used for realistic and precise drawings and watercolours of flowers when time is available
(on holidays) to actually complete such studies. Zandra still loves to work in these
conditions on beautiful stretched watercolour paper, but says that in general 'good' paper
makes her feel uptight. The favoured paper and sketchbook is now, and has been for some
time, Japanese typing books. These have a stiff card back, are also approximately A3 and
contain well over fifty semi-transparent, lightweight, natural coloured pages. Although
they have a front cover, the pages are held together with clips, a sheet of white paper being
inserted under the page while it is being used. The paper, although it looks fragile and
lightweight, is clearly very robust as Zandra has filled many of the sheets with vigorous pen
and ink drawings as well as using felt tip pens with very fast and firm movements,
frequently covering the entire sheet. Themes appear, recur, change and float across the
pages. Drawings are still carried out by night as well as by day, and although the materials
used are ungiving in terms of soft or subtle shadow, the atmosphere and weather is made
evident by colour. One reason for never tearing a page out is to witness
progression, to see if things link up, if the eye and mind and hand can
work together to clarify and identify the trueness of the subject. The
pages, which are shiny and smooth on one side, are matt and softly
surfaced on the other. They are quite transparent and can only be
In Discussion with Zandra Rhodes
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