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stretch in the warp direction, so to stretch it parallel to the
squeegee direction insured more imbalance in the mesh open-
ings and excessive stretch in the image.
We highly recommend that you use a balanced fabric and as
for orientation, there are two avenues open: If you are a high
tension advocate, real world mesh will more often than not
have greater elongation in the warp direction. So you will want
to run the warp parallel to the long sides of a Challenger or
Gauntlet frame. (see figure 1.29). The reason is that the short
dimension of a nominal automatic tee shirt frame resists
deflection, about three times as much as the long side. For the
same reason, you will want to tension the warp first.
If you run at reasonable tension levels 25 to 35 N/cm², and
you select balanced fabric, run the way that will give you the
greatest yield from the bolt. But under no circumstances
should you ever swap orientations. Once you pick an orienta-
tion, stick with it, any other antics and you are simply asking
for trouble and inconsistency.
TTeennssiioonniinngg TTiimm
ee
With the introduction and near universal acceptance of low
elongation fabric the need for all the staging required for con-
ventional fabric no longer exists. You will find that you reach
diminishing returns for waiting beyond the time it takes to ten-
sion. Low elongation fabric will lose a nominal 20 percent of
its tension level in the first 72 hours. (This percentage will vary
according to manufacturer mesh specifications and user proce-
dures).
Two options will allow you to rapidly tension low elongation
fabric tee-shirt screens. First, stage them in groups of five to
ten. Progressively tension these in stages; initial, second and
third stage for final tension. This gives the filament time to
equalize and prevents a shock to the system. Second, you can
accelerate the relaxing process by applying a weight to the cen-
ter of the screens. A steel plate ¼ thick by the image dimen-
sions can be laid upon the screen between tensioning. This
weight applies far less force than the squeegee blade and it will
cause the initial drop in tension to occur in far less time.
If you are prone to running mesh
on a bias we can probably save
you a lot of mesh money. Refer to
Chapter Two on stencils and you
may find all of your detail needs
are met by proper stencil meth-
ods, not by the mesh count or
usually its orientation. If you do
need to bias as in the case of fine-
ly woven goods with a series of
thin straight opaque lines, angle
the mesh to the *Alpha as shown
on page 1.19. You will want to
insure that your fabric has close to
the same count for both warp and
weft. This square mesh geometry
allows you to run lines (or rows of
dots) with a minimum of interfer-
ence. Further, look at the flatness
of the fabric that you are using.
The stencil can be far flatter and
hold far better detail if the mesh
starts out flat. Finally, look into
the thickness of thread that you
are using and select the thinnest
one for the count that you need.
*The Alpha angle ranges between
68 and 74 degrees, depending on
the mesh count, thread diameter
and percent of elongation.
Chapter 1
Mesh On A Bias
Mesh On A Bias