Reading and the History of Race in the Renaissance180
perfectest Pearle for roundness and whitenes” (1.169). Emilina, the Lady
who has been deceived by the false Amphilanthus and who is a version of
Pamphilia, wears her betrayal in her person and her attire: “so handsome,
as one might well see, there had bin excellent beauty, but decay’d, as
love was withered to her … her clothes were of Tawny, cut with Willow”
(1.300). Amphilanthus himself ultimately takes tawny as his color in Book
3, when, as Amphilanthus defeats his enemies and is ready to claim his
throne and return to Pamphilia, she and the princesses disappear, “the
losse of the whole worlds beauty” (1.374). Marked as a loss not just of
Pamphilia but of a chance at happiness, Amphilanthus becomes the
Lost Man: “making all tawny, as if forsaken, which was but the badge of
the Liverie he gave her soone after” (1.376). He later elaborates on those
colors, according to his “humors,” adopting “Tawny, embroidered with
Black and Silver” (1.396).
Nostalgically, Wroth wants to associate tawny with the heraldic mean-
ings that it had in an earlier age. In the early sixteenth century, tawny is a
cloth color and, through such usage, enters into heraldic and aristocratic
registers. In the Elizabethan romances of the 1570s–1590s, for instance,
writers such as Sidney, Greene, Lodge, and George Whetstone follow her-
aldic usage and use tawny to express forsakenness, abjection and stead-
fastness in love.
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Even during the Elizabethan period, though, the term
and color “tawny” begins to drop out of heraldry and subsequently out
of romance because it becomes associated with kinds and populations of
peoples (Indians, Abyssians, Tartars, mulattos) whose seemingly mixed
and marked identities re-imagined genealogy and lineage in ways that
were not consistent with the genealogical goals of either art form. Wroth,
like Mary Sidney Herbert, was particularly attentive to metaphors and
images of clothing. Wroth’s use of the term “tawny” as a device for
Pamphilia is worth setting in its larger cultural context, where it reveals
the historic tensions in the model of identity that she constructs for this
autobiographical character. Looking back to the outmoded colors of the
Elizabethan tilts and romances and resisting the newly racialized mean-
ings that had become associated with “tawny” as a color, Wroth evades
the lessons of “e Masque of Blacknesse” and “Beauty.”
As I suggested in the Introduction, Eden’s 1555 translation of Peter
Martyr’s Decades introduces “tawny” into English discussions of racial
difference. is is perhaps the first time that “tawny” is used in print to
describe a person, rather than their clothes. In “Of the colour of Indians,”
Martyr meditates on the “marveylous” variety in the color of the peo-
ples in the Indies and introduces “tawny” as his key term for describing