Rough Guide. Paris Directions

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Paris

WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Ruth Blackmore and

James McConnachie

DIRECTIONS

www.roughguides.com

NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

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CONTENTS

Contents

Introduction 4

Ideas 9

The big six ......................................10

Paris calendar ..................................12

The Seine ........................................14

Contemporary architecture ..............16

Art galleries......................................18

Lesser-known museums ..................20

House museums ..............................22

Walks and gardens ..........................24

Dead Paris........................................26

Gastronomic restaurants ..................28

Great Parisian restaurants ................30

Classic brasseries ............................32

Cafés ..............................................34

Paris nightlife ..................................36

Musical Paris....................................38

Gourmet Paris ..................................40

Shops and markets ..........................42

Paris hotels ......................................44

Paris fashion ....................................46

Gay Paris..........................................48

Kids’ Paris........................................50

Ethnic Paris......................................52

Green Paris ......................................54

Underground Paris............................56

Artistic and literary Paris ..................58

Paris views ......................................60

Medieval Paris..................................62

Places 65

The Islands ......................................67

The Louvre ......................................74

The Champs-Elysées and Tuileries ..79

Trocadéro ........................................86

The Grands Boulevards

and passages................................90

Beaubourg and Les Halles................99

The Marais ....................................105

The Quartier Latin ..........................116

St-Germain ....................................128

The Eiffel Tower area......................136

Montparnasse ................................142

Southern Paris................................148

Montmartre and northern Paris ......153

The Bastille ....................................162

Eastern Paris..................................168

Western Paris ................................175

Excursions......................................180

Accommodation 187

Hotels ............................................189

Hostels ..........................................197

Essentials 199

Arrival ............................................201

City transport ................................202

Information ....................................205

Museums and monuments ............205

Festivals and events ......................206

Directory ........................................207

Language 209

Basics ............................................211

Menu reader ..................................214

Useful Stuff 216

Index 217

Colour Maps

Paris

Central Paris

Paris Metro

Contents

Introduction

INTRODUCTION

Through the heart of the

city flows the Seine, skirt-

ing the pair of islands

where Paris was founded.

The historic pillars of the

city, the church of Notre-

Dame and the royal palace

of the Louvre, stand on the

riverbank, along with one

of the world’s most distinc-

tive landmarks – the Eiffel

Tower.There are legions of

art galleries and museums

Introduction to

Paris

A trip to Paris, famous as the most romantic of

destinations, is one of those lifetime musts.The very fabric

of the city is elegant, its grand avenues and atmospheric

little back-streets lined with harmonious apartment blocks

and interspersed by exquisitely designed gardens and

squares.The Parisians are no less stylish than their city: a

sophisticated, cosmopolitan people renowned for their chic

and their hauteur.

Spring is the classic time to visit Paris, when the weather is mild (average

daily 6–20°C), with bright days balanced by rain showers. Autumn, simi-

larly mild, and winter (1–7°C) can be very rewarding, but on overcast days

the city can feel melancholy; winter sun on the other hand is

the city’s most flattering light, and hotels and restaurants

are relatively uncrowded in this season. By contrast,

Paris in high summer (15–25°C) is not the best time to

go: large numbers of Parisians desert the capital

between July 15 and the end of August for the beach or

mountains, and many restaurants and shops close

down for much of this period.

When to visit

 The Seine from Pont des Arts

Contents

Introduction

too: between the Musée du

Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay

and the Pompidou Centre,

you can see an unhealthy

proportion of the world’s

finest works of art. For

those willing to venture

beyond the city limits, the

glorious Gothic cathedral

of St-Denis, the sumptuous

royal palace of Versailles

and the all-singing, all-

dancing Disneyland Paris,

are easily accessible.

INTRODUCTION

Alongside the

great civic

museums and

monuments lie

well-defined

quartiers that

make Paris feel

more a collec-

tion of

sophisticated

villages than a

true metropolis.

Traditional

communities

still revolve

around the

local cafés, while wealthier

enclaves preserve their

exclusive boutiques and

restaurants. Quarters such as

the elegant Marais, chi-chi

St-Germain and romantic

Montmartre are ideal for

shopping, sitting in cafés

and just aimlessly wander-

ing, while throughout the

city you can find peaceful

green spaces, ranging from

formal gardens and avant-

garde municipal parks to

 View from Tour Montparnasse

 Sacré-Couer, Montmartre

Contents

Introduction

INTRODUCTION

ancient cemeteries.

Few cities can compete

with the thousand-and-

one cafés, brasseries and

restaurants that dot Paris’s

boulevards and back-alleys,

from ultra-modern fashion

temples to traditional mir-

rored palaces, and from

tiny gourmet bistrots to

crowded Vietnamese din-

ers. After dark, the theatres

and concert halls host

world-leading productions,

and tiny venues put on

jazz gigs and Parisian

chanson nights, while the

café-bars and clubs of the

Champs-Elysées, the

Bastille and the Left Bank

fill with the young and

style-conscious from all

over Europe, and beyond.

 Bastille Café

 Tuileries Gardens

Contents

Introduction

 PARIS AT A GLANCE

INTRODUCTION

The Islands

The Ile de la Cité’s soaring Notre-

Dame and glittering Sainte-

Chapelle have been inspiring visi-

tors for centuries, while pictur-

esque Ile Saint-Louis is ideal for

leisurely quai-side strolling.

The Marais

One of Paris’s most captivating

districts, the Marais brims with

trendy bars and cafés, not to

mention gorgeous Renaissance

mansions, some of which house

outstanding museums.

 Notre-Dame

Champs Elysées

Synonymous with glitz and glam-

our, the Champs Elysées sweeps

through one of the city’s most

exclusive districts, studded with

luxury hotels and top fashion

boutiques.

Beaubourg

At the heart of the ancient

Beaubourg quartier stands the

resolutely modern Pompidou

Centre, its riot of coloured tubing

concealing a matchless collection

of modern art.

 Marais shopwindow

 Beaubourg Métro

Contents

Introduction

INTRODUCTION

 Place du Tertre, Montmartre

Yves Saint Laurent, Left Bank

Left Bank

Paris’s Left Bank, south of the

Seine, is a real haven from the

urban bustle of the city’s Right-

Bank core. The studenty Quartier

Latin, fashionable St-Germain,

arty Montparnasse and the

elegant quarter around the Eiffel

Tower all share a relaxed, village-

like feel.

Montmartre

Hilltop views of the city, traffic-free

streets, rich artistic associations

and great cafés make Montmartre

the most charming of Paris’s

neighbourhoods.

Eastern Paris

Traditionally the working-class

area, eastern Paris’s diverse stu-

dent, arty and ethnic mix ensures

a vibrant café and nightlife scene.