Contents
Places
PLACES
The Outer Boroughs
with cafés, flower shops, wine
stores, bakeries, and book nooks.
Coney Island
Generations of working-class
New Yorkers came to relax at
one of Brooklyn’s farthest
points: Coney Island, which at
its height accommodated
100,000 people daily. Now,
however, it’s one of the city’s
poorer districts, and the
Astroland amusement park is
peeling and rundown.
Nevertheless, the boardwalk has
undergone extensive and
successful renovation, and, if you
like down-at-the-heel seaside
resorts, there’s no better place
on earth on a summer weekend,
and it’s just 45 minutes by
subway from Manhattan. An
undeniable highlight is the 75-
year-old wooden roller coaster,
the Cyclone.The beach, a broad
swath of golden sand, is
beautiful, although it is often
crowded on hot days and the
water might be less than clean.
On the boardwalk, the New
York Aquarium opened in 1896
and is still going strong,
displaying fish and invertebrates
from the world over in its
darkened halls, along with
frequent open-air shows of
marine mammals (Mon–Fri
10am–5pm, Sat, Sun, & holidays
10am–5.30pm; $11, students $7;
t718/265-3474,
wwww.nyaquarium.com).Take
the #D train to Coney
Island–Stillwell Ave.
Brighton Beach
East along the boardwalk from
Coney Island, at Brooklyn’s
southernmost end, Brighton
Beach was developed in 1878
and named after the resort in
England.Today, it’s often called
“Little Odessa” and is home to
the country’s largest community
of Russian Jewish émigrés, some
25,000, who arrived in the 1970s
following a relaxation of
restrictions on Soviet citizens
entering the United States.The
neighborhood’s main drag,
Brighton Beach Avenue, parallels
the boardwalk underneath the
elevated subway; the street is a
bustling mixture of food outlets,
appetizing restaurants, and shops
selling every type of Russian
souvenir imaginable. Stay on until
the evening if you can, when
Brighton Beach really heats up
and its restaurants become a
near-parody of a rowdy Russian
night out with lots of food, loud
live music, lots of glass-clinking,
and free-flowing chilled vodka.
Take the #B or #Q train to
Brighton Beach.
Williamsburg
With easy access to Manhattan
and excellent waterfront views,
it’s not hard to see why
Williamsburg has become one
of the city’s hippest
neighborhoods, its streets home
to a blossoming art scene and
populated by scenesters wearing
vintage clothes and poking in
and out of the coffee, record,
book, and clothes shops as well
as galleries. Many dilapidated
buildings have been put to
creative use, and the face of the
neighborhood changes daily.
After the opening of the
Williamsburg Bridge in 1903,
working-class Jews seeking
more spacious living quarters
flooded the neighborhood from
the Lower East Side (see p.97).
Many Jewish residents still live
here, and on Lee Avenue, or
Bedford Avenue, which runs
parallel, Glatt Kosher
delicatessens line the streets, and
signs are written in both Yiddish
and Hebrew.Take the #L train
to Bedford Ave.
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