11
AFTER THE CIVIL WAR
and sickness. Yet black people wanted to learn, were hungry for knowledge,
famished by generations of illiteracy. This thirst for words, ideas, knowledge,
and possibilities overcame the disadvantages of poverty. Freed people demanded
literacy. And it was not just children who went to these new schools. Adults
attended too, working all day in the fields as they had always done, but taking
night classes sometimes twice a week. Some schools, like Tuskegee Institute,
were designed to teach manual labor skills in agriculture and the building trades.
Later, at the turn of the twentieth century, black American leaders debated and
feuded over which type of education—liberal arts or trades—made better sense
for black people in a wider United States society that was still not accepting
of black equality. But in 1865, when Ames and Bliss arrived on Edisto Island,
teachers and students alike were overwhelmed with getting down the basics:
the alphabet, spelling, calm classroom behavior.
Mary Ames’s time on Edisto Island—slightly more than one year—is the
story of teaching under unusual circumstances, friendship between black and
white, and the central importance of education. It is also the story of rattle-
snakes
in the bedroom, mosquitoes, sandy beaches, humid days that reduced
the New England schoolma’ams to listless lumps, and nights spent without
sleep reading cherished letters from home. What did the people of Edisto
Island want after their chalky blackboard lessons? They wanted land, family,
and salvation. Ames captured the rapture of her pupils’ yearning in one of their
invocations: “When Gabriel blow his horn for Massa Jesus would he please
blow a little louder?” African-Americans wanted what anyone wanted—the
better things in life, the good things: plenty of food, some time off, the spirit
of joy, a paying job, and freedom.
When Ames disembarked at Edisto Island on May 10, 1865, it seemed to
her “like fairy land—everything so fresh and green—the air so soft . . . the
live-oaks in the background, with their hanging moss, had a very picturesque
effect.” Fairyland got hot fast. The next day, the two newcomers
reached what must have once been a pretty avenue, now rather forlorn.
Driving in, we found negro cabins on either side, and a large house at the
end. The inhabitants of the cabins came flocking out to welcome us with
howdys, and offers of service to the missis. The former owner of the plan-
tation was Dr. Whaley, the possessor of a hundred slaves, many of whom
were now returned and living in the cabins. He deserted the place four years
before, and the house had a desolate appearance—the windows gone, and
shutters hanging by one hinge. Our trunks, box, and chairs were placed on
the piazza and the army wagon was driven away. We looked at each other;
our hearts were full, and if we could have seen any honorable way to escape
and go home we certainly should have gone.