Peterson A.T., Hewitt V., Vaughan H., Kellogg A.T. The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing through American History, 1900 to the Present. Volume 1: 1900-1949
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THE GREENWOOD ENCYCLOPEDIA OF
CLOTHING THROUGH
AMERICAN HISTORY
1900 TO THE PRESENT
T H E G R EENWO OD ENC YCLO PEDIA OF
CLOTHING THROUGH
AMERICAN HISTORY
1900 TO THE PRESENT
VOLUME 1
1900–1949
Amy T. Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan,
Ann T. Kellogg, and Lynn W. Payne
Amy T. Peterson, General Editor
GREENWOOD PRESS
Westport, Connecticut • London
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
The Greenwood encyclopedia of clothing through American history 1900 to the present /
Amy T. Peterson, general editor [v. 1], Ann T. Kellogg, general editor [v. 2].
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978 0 313 35855 5 ((set) : alk. paper)—ISBN 978 0 313 33395 8 ((vol. 1) : alk.
paper)—ISBN 978 0 313 33417 7 ((vol. 2) : alk. paper)
1. Clothing and dress—United States—History—20th century. I. Peterson, Amy T.
II. Kellogg, Ann T., 1968
GT615.G74 2008
391.0097309
0
04—dc22 2008024624
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data is available.
Copyright
C 2008 by Amy T. Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan,
Ann T. Kellogg, and Lynn W. Payne
All rights reserved. No por tion of this book may be
reproduced, by any process or technique, without the
express written consent of the publisher.
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2008024624
ISBN: 978 0 313 35855 5 (set)
978 0 313 33395 8 (vol. 1)
978 0 313 33417 7 (vol. 2)
First published in 2008
Greenwood Press, 88 Post Road West, Westport, CT 06881
An imprint of Greenwood Publishing Group, Inc.
www.greenwood.com
Printed in the United States of America
The paper used in this book complies with the
P
ermanent
Paper Standard issued by the National
Information Standards Organization (Z39.48 1984).
10987654321
Contents
Preface ix
Chronology of World and Fashion Events, 1900 1949 xiii
Part I: The S ocial Significance of Dress, 1900–1949 1
Chapter 1: The United S tates in 1900 1949: An Overview 3
Politics in America 5
Ethnicity in America 6
Art and Entertainment 7
Daily Life 9
The Changing Role of Women 10
Sexuality and Morality 11
Growing Up in America 12
Fashion 14
Chapter 2: Political and Cultural Events 19
The 1900s 21
The 1910s 28
The 1920s 33
The 1930s 39
The 1940s 44
Chapter 3: Art and Entertainment 53
The 1900s 55
The 1910s 61
The 1920s 66
The 1930s 71
The 1940s 78
v
Chapter 4: Daily Life 87
The 1900s 89
The 1910s 95
The 1920s 100
The 1930s 105
The 1940s 107
Chapter 5: The Individual and Family 115
The 1900s 117
The 1910s 126
The 1920s 130
The 1930s 138
The 1940s 140
Part II: Fashion and the Fashion Industry, 1900–1949 147
Chapter 6: The Business of Fashion 149
Haute Couture 150
Ready-to-Wear 155
Retail Operations 158
Fashion Communication 161
Fashion Technology 165
Chapter 7: Women’s Fashions 169
1900 1908, The Edwardian or La Belle Epoque Era 171
1909 1914, Empire Revival 180
1914 1919, World War I 188
1920s, The Jazz Age 197
1930s, The Great Depression 211
1940 1946, World War II 223
1947 1949, The New Look 237
Chapter 8: Men’s Fashions 247
The 1900s 248
The 1910s 256
1920s, The Jazz Age 263
1930s, The Great Depression 272
1940s, World War II 280
Chapter 9: Children’s Fashions 289
The 1900s 291
The 1910s 297
1920s, The Jazz Age 307
1930s, The Great Depression 316
1940s, World War II 326
vi
Contents
Glossary, 1900 1949 341
Resource Guide, 1900 1949 347
Print and Online Publications 347
Films and Video Media 352
Museums, Organizations, Special Collections, and Useful Websites 354
Cumulative Index 361
About the Contributors 391
Unnumbered photo essay appears following page 204.
Contents
vii
Preface
Fashion is influenced by society, and, in turn, fashion influences society.
Changes in appearance, however subtle or minimal, reflect changes in so-
ciety. As society changes and evolves, so does fashion. Fashion is not the
exclusive pur view of the social elite, nor can it be summarily dismissed as
mere vanity. It is much more complex than just wearing the latest styles.
We use fashion to express who we are and what we think and to project
an image, bolster our confidence, and attract partners. Fashion crosses all
strata of society and is tightly interwoven into each individual’s identity.
Undeniably, fashion ‘‘… is an essential part of the human experience’’
(Damhorst, Miller, and Michelman 1999, p. xi).
Clothing through American History 1900 to the Present examines the
relationship between social, cultural, and political developments and fash-
ion in the United States. Volume One discusses the culture, clothing, and
fashion in America from 1900 to 1949, and Volume Two discusses the
culture, clothing, and fashion in America from 1950 to the present, about
midway through 2008 at this writing. Both volumes in this set are struc-
tured to provide two levels of information to the reader: first, what people
wore and, second, and perhaps more important, why they wore it. In
addition to chapters on fashion trends, this work contains chapters specif-
ically dedicated to examining the impact that politics, culture, arts and
entertainment, daily life, and family structures have on fashion and how
fashion can serve as an impetus for change in society. This set also exam-
ines the history of the fashion industry and the communication of fashion
information in print, in movies and television, and across the Internet.
Research for this work was conducted through numerous primary and
secondary resources on fashion and history, which can be found in the
chapter references and in the Resource Guide at the end of each volume,
particularly in the ‘‘Print and Online Publications’’ section. Not all
ix