McEvoy A. The 1920s and 1930s: Costume and Fashion Source Books
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argyle pattern Diamond shapes set in a diagonal
checkerboard arrangement.
Bakelite The first plastic made from synthetic
components. Non-conductive and heat-resistant, it
was used in industry and the kitchen as well as in
jewelry and toys.
batiste A soft, lightweight, opaque fabric made of
woven cotton.
bias cut Fabric cut not on the straight grain but at an
angle of 45 degrees. This gives it a natural stretch.
bolero A very short jacket with sleeves, just covering
the shoulders. Similar to the modern “shrug.”
box pleat A double pleat made by turning under
fabric on both sides.
brocade A rich, heavy fabric with a raised design
woven into it.
bugle beads Narrow, tubular glass beads.
chiffon A sheer crepe fabric made by twisting the
yarn: usually made of silk or nylon.
couture High-fashion garments, usually made
to order.
crepe A fabric with a wrinkled surface.
culottes A long divided skirt that gives the same
freedom of movement as pants.
cummerbund A broad sash worn around the waist.
diamanté Sparkling stone resembling a diamond.
directoire knickers Knee-length knickers,
elasticized at waist and knee.
Fair Isle pattern Traditional knitting style, using
multiple colors, which originated on Fair Isle off
northern Scotland.
georgette Lightweight fabric, originally made from
silk, with a crinkly crepe-like texture.
handkerchief hem A hemline falling in points like
a handkerchief.
jersey A cotton or cotton-blend knitted fabric.
lamé A fabric interwoven with metal threads that
give a metallic sheen.
marabou Very fine, fluffy feathers.
marcasite A form of iron sulfide often used in
inexpensive jewelry to imitate diamonds.
muslin A very finely woven cotton fabric.
nylon A synthetic material developed in 1935 as a
cheaper replacement for silk.
organdie (or organdy) A lightweight fabric similar
to batiste but more transparent.
poplin A medium-weight fabric with a slightly
ribbed texture, made of cotton or cotton blend.
rayon A high-sheen synthetic fabric, made from
wood pulp. Also known as “art silk” or “viscose.”
rouge Red powder or cream used to give color to
the cheeks.
satin A medium-weight silky fabric with a glossy
surface and a dull reverse.
sequins Tiny circles of metal or plastic foil used to
decorate garments.
serge A twill fabric, usually of wool or worsted, with
a diagonal ribbed texture.
shawl collar A collar whose lapels descend in a
curved line without notches.
shingle A short haircut, slightly waved and tapered
to a V shape at the nape of the neck.
smocking Decorative stitching worked over
gathered fabric, usually on the bodice of a dress.
spats A kind of shoe-protector that buttons on over
the ankle.
swagger coat A triangular-shaped coat with a flared
back and raglan sleeves.
toque A small, round brimless hat worn by women.
trench coat A knee-length belted raincoat, based on
military design.
tulle A fine net fabric made of silk or rayon.
tweed A closely woven, unfinished wool fabric with
a rough texture, originating in Scotland.
winged collar A small standing collar with the
points bent outward to resemble wings.
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Glossary
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BOOKS
GENERAL
Dearling, Shirley. Elegantly Frugal Costumes: The
Poor Man’s Do-It-Yourself Costume Maker’s
Guide. Meriwether, 1992.
Haley, Gail E. Costumes for Plays and Playing.
Parkway, 2002.
Holkeboer, Katherine Strand. Patterns for Theatrical
Costumes: Garments, Trims, and Accessories from
Ancient Egypt to 1915. Drama Publishers, 1993.
Kidd, Mary. Stage Costume, Step by Step. Betterway
Books, 2002.
La Motte, Richard. Costume Design 101: The
Business and Art of Creating Costumes for Film
and Television. Michael Wiese Productions, 2001.
Leese, Elizabeth. Costume Design in the Movies: An
Illustrated Guide to the Work of 157 Great
Designers. Dover, 1991.
Pecktal, Lynn. Costume Design: Techniques of
Modern Masters. Backstage Books, 1999.
Rogers, Barb. Costuming Made Easy: How to Make
Theatrical Costumes from Cast-Off Clothing.
Meriwether, 1999.
PERIOD
Altman & Co. 1920s Fashions from B. Altman & Co.
Dover, 1998.
Blum, Stella. Everyday Fashions of the Thirties
as Featured in Sears and Other Catalogues.
Dover, 1981.
Blum, Stella. Everyday Fashions of the Twenties
as Featured in Sears and Other Catalogues.
Dover, 1981.
Grafton, Carol Belanger. Fashions of the Thirties:
476 Copyright-Free Illustrations. Dover, 1993.
Peacock, John. The 1930s: Fashion Sourcebook.
Thames & Hudson, 1997.
Peacock, John. Fashion Accessories: The Complete
20th Century Sourcebook. Thames & Hudson,
2000.
Peacock, John. 20th Century Jewellery: The
Complete Sourcebook. Thames & Hudson, 2002.
Schiaparelli, Elsa. Shocking Life. V&A Publications,
2 0 07.
Ward, Tammy. Fashionable Clothing from the Sears
Catalogs: Early 1930s. Schiffer Publishing, 2007.
Ward, Tammy. Fashionable Clothing from the Sears
Catalogs: Mid 1930s. Schiffer Publishing, 2007.
WEB SITES
www.bombshells.com
Gallery of publicity photos of actresses in costume.
www.costumes.org/history/100pages/
mensfashhist.htm
Good illustrations of men’s wear advertising of
the period.
www.evadress.com
Has vintage patterns, 1800s to 1950s, in a range
of sizes.
www.fashion-era.com/stylish_thirties.htm
General information on styles of clothing.
www.thefedoralounge.com
Information on hats and hairstyles.
www.hairarchives.com
Information on hairstyles and beauty in general.
www.lib.berkeley.edu/MRC/2030svid.html#
movies
Has good information on movies of the period.
www.1930s-fashions.co.uk
Excellent period illustrations of the fashions of
the time.
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Further Information
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Source List
THE TWENTIES
PLAYS
Chicago (1926), by Maurine Dallas Watkins
Chicago (1975), musical, by Kander and Ebb
The Front Page (1931), by Ben Hecht
Hay Fever (1925), by Noel Coward
Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom (1982), by August Wilson
Once in a Lifetime (1929-30), by Moss Hart and
George S. Kaufman
MOVIES AND TV
The Blue Angel (1930), dir. Josef von Sternberg, with
Emil Jannings, Marlene Dietrich
Bonnie and Clyde (1967), dir. Arthur Penn, with
Faye Dunaway, Warren Beatty
The Cat’s Meow (2001), dir. Peter Bogdanovich, with
Kirsten Dunst, Edward Herrmann
Chariots of Fire (1981), dir. Hugh Hudson, with Ian
Charleson, Ben Cross
Chicago (2002), dir. Rob Marshall, with Catherine
Zeta-Jones, Renée Zellweger
The Cotton Club (1984), dir. Francis Ford Coppola,
with Richard Gere, Gregory Hines
The Flapper (1920), dir. Alan Crosland, with Olive
Thomas, Warren Cook
The Godfather Part 2 (1974), dir. Francis Ford
Coppola, with Robert De Niro, Al Pacino
The Great Gatsby (1974), dir. Jack Clayton, with Mia
Farrow, Robert Redford
The Great Gatsby (2000, TV), dir. Robert
Markowitz, with Mia Sorvino, Toby Stephens
The Hours (2002), dir. Stephen Daldry, with Nicole
Kidman, Julianne Moore
The Moderns (1988), dir. Alan Rudolph, with Keith
Carradine, Linda Fiorentino
Mrs Dalloway (1997), dir. Marleen Gorris, with
Vanessa Redgrave, Rupert Graves
Mrs Parker and the Vicious Circle (1994), dir. Alan
Rudolph, with Jennifer Jason Leigh, Campbell Scott
Once in a Lifetime (1932), dir. Russell Mack, with
Jack Oakie, Sidney Fox
Once Upon a Time in America (1984), dir. Sergio
Leone, with Robert De Niro, James Woods
Out of Africa (1985), dir. Sydney Pollack, with
Meryl Streep, Robert Redford
The Painted Veil (1934), dir. Ryszard Boleslawski,
with Greta Garbo, Herbert Marshall
The Painted Veil (2006), dir. John Curran, with
Naomi Watts, Edward Norton
A Passage to India (1985), dir. David Lean, with
Peggy Ashcroft, Judy Davis
Singin’ in the Rain (1952), dir. Stanley Donan and
Gene Kelly, with Gene Kelly, Debbie Reynolds
Thoroughly Modern Millie (1967), dir. George Roy
Hill, with Julie Andrews, Mary Tyler Moore
Valentino (1977), dir. Ken Russell, with Rudolf
Nureyev, Leslie Caron
Gangster movies
Angels with Dirty Faces (1938), dir. Michael Kurtiz,
with James Cagney, Pat O’Brien
Bugsy Malone (1976), dir. Alan Parker, with Jodie
Foster, Scott Baio
‘G’ Men (1935), dir. William Keighley, with James
Cagney, Anne Dvorak
Little Caesar (1931), dir. Mervyn LeRoy, with
Edward G. Robinson, Douglas Fairbanks Jnr.
A selection of plays, movies, TV series and musicals with 1920s and 1930s themes.
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Miller’s Crossing (1990), dir. Joel Coen, with Gabriel
Byrne, Albert Finney
The Public Enemy (1931), dir. William A Wellman,
with James Cagney, Jean Harlow
The Roaring Twenties (1939), dir. Raoul Walsh, with
James Cagney, Humphrey Bogart
Scarface (1932), dir. Howard Hawks, with Paul
Muni, George Raft
The Untouchables (1987), dir. Brian de Palma, with
Kevin Costner, Robert De Niro
THE THIRTIES
PLAYS
Awake and Sing (1935), by Clifford Odets
Design for Living (1933), by Noel Coward
Our Town (1938), by Thornton Wilder
Present Laughter (1939), by Noel Coward
Private Lives (1930), by Noel Coward
MOVIES
Annie (1982), dir. John Huston, with Albert Finney,
Aileen Quinn
Atonement (2007), dir. Joe Wright, with Keira
Knightley, James McAvoy
The Aviator (2004), dir. Martin Scorsese, with
Leonardo DiCaprio, Cate Blanchett
Bound for Glory (1976), dir. Hal Ashby, with David
Carradine, Ronny Cox
Cabaret (1972), dir. Bob Fosse, with Liza Minnelli,
Michael York
Cinderella Man (2005), dir. Ron Howard, with
Russell Crowe, Renée Zellweger
Citizen Kane (1941), dir. Orson Welles, with Orson
Welles, Joseph Cotten
Death on the Nile (1978), dir. John Guillermin, with
Peter Ustinov, Bette Davis
Design for Living (1933), dir. Ernst Lubitsch, with
Gary Cooper, Fredric March
A Good Woman (2004), dir. Mike Barker, with
Helen Hunt, Scarlett Johansson
Gosford Park (2001), dir. Robert Altman, with
Maggie Smith, Eileen Atkins
Grand Hotel (1932), dir. Edmund Goulding, with
Greta Garbo, John Barrymore
The Grapes of Wrath (1940), dir. John Ford, with
Henry Fonda, John Carradine
His Girl Friday (1940), dir. Howard Hawks, with
Cary Grant, Rosalind Russell
I’m No Angel (1933), dir. Wesley Ruggles, with Mae
West, Cary Grant
Julia (1977), dir. Fred Zinnemann, with Jane Fonda,
Vanessa Redgrave
King Kong (1933), with Fay Wray, Robert Armstrong
King Kong (2005), dir. Peter Jackson, with Naomi
Watts, Jack Black
Letty Lynton (1932), dir. Clarence Brown, with Joan
Crawford, Robert Montgomery
Murder on the Orient Express (1974), dir. Sidney
Lumet, with Albert Finney, Ingrid Bergman
O Brother, Where Art Thou? (2000), dir. Joel Coen,
with George Clooney, John Turturro
Paper Moon (1973), dir. Peter Bogdanovich, with
Ryan O’Neal, Tatum O’Neal
The Purple Rose of Cairo (1985), dir. Woody Allen,
with Mia Farrow, Jeff Daniels
Le Quai des Brumes (1938), dir. Marcel Carné, with
Jean Gabin, Michel Simon
La Règle du Jeu (1939), dir. Jean Renoir, with Nora
Gregor, Marcel Dalio
Road to Perdition (2002), dir. Sam Mendes, with
Tom Hanks, Paul Newman
The Sting (1973), dir. George Roy Hill, with Paul
Newman, Robert Redford
Sweet and Lowdown (2000), dir. Woody Allen, with
Sean Penn, Samantha Morton
They Shoot Horses, Don’t They? (1969), dir. Sydney
Pollack, with Jane Fonda, Michael Sarrazin
To Kill a Mockingbird (1962), dir. Robert Mulligan,
with Gregory Peck, Mary Badham
Victor/Victoria (1982), dir. Blake Edwards, with Julie
Andrews, James Garner
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Numbers in bold refer to
illustrations.
accessories 9, 13, 15, 26, 26, 33,
35, 56–8, 56–8
Algonquin Round Table 6
art deco 5, 23, 58
art nouveau 12
ascots 19
Bakelite 57, 58
beading 8, 8, 12, 26
bias cutting 12, 32, 34, 34, 40, 43
blazers 14 , 19, 20, 50
Brooks, Louise 23, 23, 27
Capone, Al 16
cardigans 19, 49
catalogs 10, 28, 29
Chanel, “Coco” 19, 24, 34, 43
chiffon 8, 11, 12, 19, 19
children’s wear 53–4, 54–5
coats 9, 14, 15, 16, 19, 25, 30, 35,
38, 38, 50, 54, 55, 56, 58
collars 30, 38, 54
colors 12, 15, 23, 31, 34, 36, 41, 44
cotton 20, 34
couture 11, 12, 12, 22, 25, 32, 46
Coward, Noel 20, 25, 37, 39
crepe 8, 12, 31, 52
dresses 6, 7, 8, 8, 10, 10, 11, 11 , 28,
29, 31, 35, 40, 41, 42–3, 43, 48,
53, 54
Edward, Prince of Wales 14, 15, 19,
37, 38, 52
embroidery 8, 12, 23, 25, 26
evening wear 12, 12 , 25, 29, 31, 31,
32, 32–3, 34, 34, 38, 47, 57
fashion
Egyptian influence 13, 13
1920s 5–13, 6–13, 14–15, 14–15,
18–27, 18–27
1930s 16–17, 28–35, 28–35,
36–9, 36–9, 40–47, 40–47,
48–59, 48–59
oriental influence 8, 12–13, 13 , 24
sailor influence 19, 21 , 52, 52
feathers 12, 25, 43, 44, 56, 56
felt 25, 54, 56
flappers 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 10, 23
footwear 7, 9, 17 , 19, 20, 21, 23, 26,
33, 40, 41, 52, 53, 54, 55, 57
furs 29, 45, 49, 56
gangsters 16, 17 , 30, 47
gloves 57, 58
hairstyles 21, 23, 23, 26–7, 27, 33,
44, 46, 47, 49, 59
handkerchiefs 15, 16, 54
hats 9, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 19 , 20,
20, 25, 25, 35, 38, 41, 45, 45, 46,
49, 50, 51, 52, 54, 55, 56–7, 56
headdresses 5, 25
hemlines 8, 8, 10, 29, 51
jackets 14, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 31, 3 7,
38, 39, 48, 48, 49, 49, 50, 51, 52,
54, 58
Jazz Age, the 5
jersey fabric 11, 19, 31, 48
jewelry 15, 19, 26, 58
kimonos 12–13, 13
knitwear 49
linen 19, 19, 20
lounge lizards 15
makeup 24, 24, 27, 45, 59, 59
men’s wear 14–17, 14–17, 19, 19 ,
36–9, 36–9, 41, 46–7, 46–7, 50,
50, 52–3, 53, 56
movie stars 24–5, 24, 29, 29, 32,
36, 37, 41, 42–5, 42–7, 49, 54,
54
necklines 8, 11, 11 , 43
Norfolk suit 20
nylon 5
Oxford bags 20
pajamas 25, 39, 52
pants 14, 14, 16, 17 , 19, 20, 21 , 23,
37, 38, 39, 41, 44, 45, 49, 49, 50,
51, 52, 54
pantsuits 23, 45
plus fours 19, 20, 52
Prohibition 16, 30
purses 57, 57
rayon 5, 8, 34
satin 12, 29, 32, 34, 40, 40, 41, 43
scarves 15, 16, 25, 25
serge 14
shirts 14 , 16, 18, 19, 20, 23, 36, 38,
41, 45, 46, 50, 52
shorts 52,
55
silk 8, 11, 1
2, 15, 16, 19, 20, 23, 25,
25, 29, 31, 39
skirts 19, 21, 22, 22, 23, 31, 48, 49,
50, 51, 52
sleeves 37, 38, 38, 47, 54
socks 19, 53, 54, 55
spats 16
sports wear 20, 22–3, 22, 50, 51
stockings 8, 9, 20, 21, 25, 27
suits 14, 16, 16, 17 , 19, 20, 23, 29,
35, 36, 36–7, 37, 38, 41, 45, 46,
47, 49, 50, 52, 54, 56
sweaters 19, 21 , 23, 34, 45, 49, 50,
51, 55
swimwear 49, 51, 51
taffeta 11
tailcoats 14, 38, 39, 41, 44, 45
ties 14, 15, 15, 16, 17, 36, 36, 37,
38, 39, 41, 44, 46, 49, 54
tuxedos 15, 23, 40, 41
tweed 14, 19, 20, 23, 48, 50, 52
underwear 7, 35, 46
Valentino, Rudolph 14, 15, 15 , 27
velvet 11, 12, 23, 23, 25, 41, 55, 56
vests 14, 15, 16, 37, 38, 41, 53
Wall Street crash 5, 28
weddings 40–41, 40–41
wristwatches 58, 58
women’s wear 5–13, 6–13, 18–19,
18–19, 22–3, 22–3, 24–7, 24–7,
28–35, 28–35, 40–43, 40–43,
48–9, 48–53, 52–3, 56–7, 56–7
wool cloth 11, 14, 15, 20, 29, 31, 48,
53
World War I 5, 18
Index
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