Spain in the twelfth century 491
and vines. Though Castilians mocked the Frenchmen who returned home be-
fore the battle of Las Navas in 1212,
48
the heat which drove them had proved the
Muslims’ most reliable ally throughout the previous century and as unfamiliar
an experience to the foreign recruits of the Christian rulers as the camels in the
enemy army which the chronicler so regularly mentioned.
49
Foreign warriors were preceded by foreign pilgrims. For well over a cen-
tury already Santiago de Compostela had been attracting Christians from far
afield; by 1105 the earliest recorded English pilgrim, the Yorkshireman Richard
Mauleverer, had been there. But, despite the fact that at mid-century another
Englishman did not think the place worth commenting on, by the time Louis
VII of France made the journey in 1154,Santiago’s fame and prestige who estab-
lished. This transformation was due above all to Diego Gelm
´
ırez during whose
pontificate (1100–40) the see was raised to metropolitan status (1120) and the
mighty romanesque cathedral and the vast complex of buildings associated
with it was largely completed.
50
The guidebook for pilgrims which comprised the fifth and final book of the
contemporary work Jacobus (the so-called Liber Sancti Jacobi) described the four
major routes along which pilgrims travelled from France, converging at Puente
la Reina and continuing by way of Estella, Logro
˜
no and Burgos (where it was
joined by the road from Bayonne), Sahag
´
un, Le
´
on, Astorga and Ponferrada
before entering Galicia. The guidebook is full of essential information con-
cerning both the necessities of life – bread (excellent at Estella, but then Estella
was French), rivers (poisonous in most parts of Navarre, safer further west), fish
and meat (fatal everywhere) – and the inhabitants of the region whom the trav-
eller would encounter: the barbarous Basques with their terrifying language;
the Navarrese with their particularly disagreeable habits, whose name betrayed
the malignity of their origins (Nauarrus: non verus) and who ate like pigs and
sounded like dogs; the Castilians, a people as vicious as their land was fertile;
and at the end of the journey the Galicians, bad-tempered and litigious.
51
Jacobus was not a guidebook in any ordinary sense of the word, and its
widespread dissemination after about 1170 was moreover something of an ac-
cident.
52
Even so (and whether these sentiments merely reflected their author’s
personal prejudices or were an expression of common opinion), the effect
of their publication ought to have been to have discouraged foreigners from
48
Below, p. 507.
49
Chronica Adefonsi imperatoris,bkii, chs. 23, 27, 33, 52, 73, 92.
50
V
´
azquez de Parga, Lacarra and Ur
´
ıa R
´
ıu (1948–9), i,pp.51, 64;Fletcher (1984), p. 96;Miret y Sans
(1912). It was Oviedo that possessed ‘the most precious relics of all Spain’ according to the chronicler
of the siege of Lisbon: De expugnatione Lyxbonensi,pp.63–5.
51
Libri sancti Jacobi,pp.349–60;V
´
azquez de Parga, Lacarra and Ur
´
ıa R
´
ıu (1948–9), i,pp.202–15;
Defourneaux (1949), pp. 102–6.
52
Hohler (1972), pp. 55, 69.
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