
146 CHE GUEVARA
that look close enough to touch, and snow-covered peaks bathed in the
soft, multicolored glow of an indescribably beautiful sunset.
On the altiplano are Bolivia’s major mining centers and the focal point
of national politics, the capital city of La Paz. Situated at 11,900 feet in a
deep basin on the altiplano, La Paz is the highest capital city in the world.
The approach by land to the city is from the altiplano. Consequently, the
fi rst view one receives of La Paz is from some 2,000 feet directly above
it. The view of the shiny tin-roofed city in the basin below takes one’s
breath away. Far below sprawls the glittering city and, in the distance
beyond, the snowy peaks of the mystical Mount Illimani (sacred to the
Incas) tower to a height of over 21,000 feet.
La Paz is a fascinating blend of the old and new. Together with mod-
ern buildings and late-model cars, one sees churches built by the Span-
iards over four centuries ago; and in every street, Indian women with
their characteristic bowler hats, colorful shawls, and babies carried on
their backs. It is a bustling, sunny city, fi lled with color, lots of hilly
streets, Spanish colonial style buildings, and an atmosphere of excite-
ment and activity. It has a breezy, cool, and dry climate, and because
it is so high the atmosphere is thin and it is easy to lose one’s breath
without too much exertion.
Over the mountains from La Paz lies the city of Cochabamba, an
important agricultural center in the heart of an 8,400-foot-high valley
where the climate is temperate and the soil quite fertile. Farther east,
the mountains drop toward the tropical savannas and plains of eastern
Bolivia. The most important city in this area is Santa Cruz, located at
the foot of the eastern slopes of the Andes. Santa Cruz is known for its
colonial Spanish architecture and its beautiful women of Spanish de-
scent, but today it has all the characteristics of a boom city. The grow-
ing economy of the area is based on sugar, cotton, rice, oil, and cocaine
(it was rumored in the 1980s and 1990s to be the capital of Bolivia’s
international cocaine trade). Approximately 200 miles south of Santa
Cruz lies the town of Camiri, the only other sizable urban center in the
eastern part of the country. Camiri is Bolivia’s oil and gas center, and
although it is not comparable to Santa Cruz in either importance or size,
it too has experienced an economic boom.
Despite the eastern portion of Bolivia accounting for approximately
70 percent of the total land area of the country, only about one-fourth