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278 helena hamerow
may also have a bearing on the question of social change, as Style ii was
restricted almost exclusively to prestigious metalwork (most famously, a range
of gold objects from Sutton Hoo) and manuscripts.
69
A detailed study of Style
ii motifs and the contexts of Style ii objects in Scandinavia suggests that it was
introduced in a context of political conflict and was used in public rituals (of
which burial was one) as a form of heraldic propaganda by a newly powerful
‘class’ seeking to establish itself.
70
Regrettably, Style ii objects in England are
too few and their contexts in many cases too uncertain for this to be anything
more than a tantalising possibility here.
71
Female dress, at least of the elite, was transformed in the seventh century,
when the peplos-style dress fastened at the shoulder with large, heavy brooches
was replaced by a sewn costume adorned with delicate pins and necklaces in
imitation of Mediterranean fashions. This was preceded by the appearance in
the late sixth century of brooches, which may reflect a new emphasis on ‘badges’
of high rank.
72
This is clearest in Anglian regions, with the appearance of larger,
highly ornate, so-called ‘florid’ variants of older forms, notably of cruciform
and greatsquare-headed brooches. Furthermore, stylistic analysis suggests some
degree of centralised control over the production of these brooches. Square-
headed broochesin particular are found in graves of above-average burial wealth
and may have served as a means of displaying the status of leading families.
73
As for settlements, a sufficient number of radiocarbon dates is now avail-
able to suggest that the appearance of large buildings, separate, high-status
settlements and planned layouts which made use of enclosures and trackways
were all introduced in the course of the later sixth and early seventh centuries
(see above). The interpretation of these phenomena and how they may have
been related is, however, far from clear-cut. The great halls, with their lav-
ish consumption of timber and labour, can be uncontroversially interpreted
as the homesteads of ‘central people’: new landlords who established separate
settlements and displayed an ostentatious style of building set within a dis-
tinctive layout. But while both Yeavering and Cowdery’s Down were founded
in the late sixth century, it was not until the seventh century that they took
on obviously high-status characteristics, although both made use of alignment
and enclosures from the outset. Finally, while in the case of Yeavering and
Cowdery’s Down their carefully planned layouts and use of enclosures clearly
reflect a desire to impress and to restrict access to special buildings and zones,
69
SeeSpeake (1980) and Høilund Nielsen (1997).
70
See Høilund Nielsen (1997) and Hines (1998), p. 309.
71
See Høilund Nielsen (1999).
72
SeeHawkes and Meaney (1970).
73
C. Mortimer, pers. comm.; Hines (1984), pp. 30–1 and (1998), p. 34.Inthe ‘Saxon’ area of the Upper
Thames valley, too, cast saucer brooches, in use since the fifth century, became larger towards the
end of the sixth and in the early seventh centuries. See Dickinson (1993), p. 39.