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asocial history of the deccan
Maharashtra. Although Tukaram himself had made informal pilgrimages to
Vithoba’s great temple at Pandharpur, it was his youngest son who, after his
father’s disappearance, inaugurated the tradition of a procession making its
way from Dehu to Pandharpur, accompanied by a decorated cart carrying the
poet’s wooden sandals. In this way, Dehu joined other Maharashtrian villages
or towns from which similar such processions, known as palkhis, made regu-
lar, simultaneous pilgrimages to Pandharpur. Each town from which a palkhi
commenced was identified with a Marathi poet-saint whose wooden sandals,
symbols of the saint’s living presence, accompanied the pilgrims as they walked
to Vithoba’s temple at Pandharpur. The effect, suggests Charlotte Vaudeville,
is “a form of mass communion in the exaltation of Vithoba’s presence and the
presence of his beloved saints.”
54
As of Tukaram’s day, enough palkhis had been
established – beginning with that of Jnanadev – that the Varkaris’ pilgrimage
tradition had already come to embrace the entire Marathi-speaking Desh.
55
This tradition doubtless helped knit together peoples of many different
castes from points all across the Marathi-speaking Deccan, symbolizing the
cultural unity of Maharashtra.
56
Nowhere else in the Deccan, or even in India,
does one find an instance in which vernacular language, cultural space, and
religious devotion reinforce one another so perfectly as in the Varkari tradition.
In his monograph The Cult of Vithoba,G.A.Deleury maps the routes of the
principal processions, showing how they converge on Pandharpur from every
region of the far-flung Marathi zone, from Nagpur in the east, to the Tapti
River in the north, to the Krishna in the south.
57
In 1949, having made the
pilgrimage herself, the anthropologist Irawati Karve famously wrote, “I found
anew definition of Maharashtra: the land whose people go to Pandharpur for
pilgrimage.”
58
The pilgrimage tradition as described by twentieth-century observers,
59
however, had evolved considerably since its earliest beginnings in the thir-
teenth century, when it was celebrated by the poet Jnanadev. After Tukaram’s
day, processions became far more organized than before, being divided into
54
Vaudeville, Myths, Saints and Legends, 216.
55
G. A. Deleury, The Cult of Vithoba (Poona, 1960), 7, 18, 77–78. Since the seventeenth century,
more palkhiswere added. In fact, most of today’s palkhiswere established in the twentieth century.
56
Anne Feldhaus, “Maharashtra as a Holy Land: a Sectarian Tradition,” Bulletin of the School of
Oriental and African Studies 49 (1986): 532.
57
SeeDeleury, Cult of Vithoba,Plate 4: “Routes of the Palkhis,” facing p. 76.
58
Iravati Karve, “Vatcal,” in Paripurti (Pune, 1949), trans. by D. D. Karve as “On the Road: a
Maharashtrian Pilgrimage,” Journal of Asian Studies 22, no. 1 (November 1962): 22.
59
In addition to Irawati Karve’s “On the Road,” see Irina Glushkova, “A Study of the Term ananda
in the Varkari Tradition,” in Tender Ironies: a Tribute to Lothar Lutze, ed. Dilip Chitre, et al.(New
Delhi, 1994), 220–30, and Deleury, Cult of Vithoba, 73–109.
152