Rough Guide. New York

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New York

WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Martin Dunford

WITH ADDITIONAL RESEARCH BY

Adrien Glover

DIRECTIONS

www.roughguides.com

NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

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CONTENTS

Contents

Introduction 4

Ideas 9

The big six sights ............................10

Quintessential New York

restaurants....................................12

Green New York................................14

Ethnic New York ..............................16

Museums and galleries ....................18

Shopping streets ..............................20

Cafés and tearooms ........................22

Skyscrapers ....................................24

Gourmet food ..................................26

Clubs and music venues ..................28

Twenty-four-hour New York ..............30

Grand hotels ....................................32

City views ........................................34

Gay New York ..................................36

Classic bars ....................................38

Reasons to leave the island..............40

Kids’ New York ................................42

New York food ..................................44

Film and TV locations ......................46

Literary landmarks ..........................48

Gourmet restaurants ........................50

Churches and synagogues ..............52

New York on the cheap ....................54

Concert halls....................................56

Shopping..........................................58

Breakfast and brunch spots..............60

Parades and annual events ..............62

Places 65

Battery Park and the

Harbor Islands ..............................67

The Financial District........................70

City Hall Park and TriBeCa................79

Chinatown and Little Italy ................85

SoHo ................................................91

The Lower East Side ........................97

The East Village..............................103

Greenwich Village ..........................112

Chelsea and the Garment District ..121

Union Square, Gramercy Park,

and Murray Hill ..........................128

Times Square and the

Theater District ..........................135

Midtown East ................................144

Central Park ..................................155

The Upper East Side ......................161

The Upper West Side......................171

Harlem and above ..........................180

The Outer Boroughs ......................186

Accommodation 199

Hotels ............................................201

Hostels and YMCAs ........................209

B&Bs and serviced apartments ......210

Essentials 213

Arrival ............................................215

Information ....................................216

City transportation..........................217

City tours ......................................218

Money............................................219

Phones, mail, and email ................219

Festivals and holidays ....................220

Directory ......................................221

Index 223

Colour Maps

Manhattan

MTA New York City Subway

Midtown Manhattan

Downtown Manhattan

Contents

Introduction

INTRODUCTION

Introduction to

New York

The most enthralling city in

the world, New York holds

immense romantic appeal for

visitors.There’s no place quite

like it: it’s historic, yet its

buildings and monuments are icons of the modern

age; the dizzy maelstrom of its streets and

neighborhoods is famously – and fantastically –

relentless, but it has some of the most peaceful urban

green spaces in the world.Whether you’re gazing at

the flickering lights of lower Manhattan’s skyscrapers

from the Brooklyn Bridge, experiencing the 4am half-

life of SoHo or the East Village, or just wasting the

morning on the Staten Island ferry, you really would

have to be made of stone not to be moved by it all.

Pretty much any time is a good time to visit New York. Winters here can be

bitingly cold, but the city can be delightful in November and

December during the run-up to Christmas, when the trees

are lit up with fairy lights and shops stay open extra-late.

The weather is at its coldest in January and February,

but there can be great flight bargains at this time of

year, and in any case New York has some wonderful

crisp and clear sunny days even then. Spring, early

summer, and fall are perhaps the most appealing times

to visit, when temperatures can be comfortably warm.

July and August are the only months you may truly want to avoid: the tem-

peratures tend be sweltering and the humidity worse, while flights are

expensive and everyone tends to leave town for more comfortable climes if

they can.

When to visit

Contents

Introduction

You could spend weeks in

New York and still barely

scratch the surface, but

there are some key attrac-

tions and pleasures you

won’t want to miss.The

INTRODUCTION

city is rife

with vibrant

ethnic neigh-

borhoods, like

Chinatown

and Harlem,

and boasts the

artsy enclaves

of SoHo,

TriBeCa, and

Greenwich

Village. Of

course, you

will find the

celebrated

architecture

of corporate

Manhattan as

well as the

city’s

renowned

museums –

not just the

Metropolitan

Museum of Art or the

Museum of Modern Art,

but countless smaller col-

lections that afford weeks

of happy wandering. In

between sights, you can eat

쒀 New York firehouse

쒀 Subway entrance

Contents

Introduction

INTRODUCTION

just about anything,

cooked in any style; you

can drink in virtually any

company; and attend any

number of obscure movies.

The more established arts

– dance, theater, and music

– are superbly catered for;

and New York’s clubs are

as varied and exciting and

you might expect. And, for

the avid consumer, the

choice of shops is vast,

almost numb-

ingly exhaus-

tive in this

heartland of

the great capi-

talist dream.

New York City

comprises the

central island

of Manhattan

along with

four outer bor-

oughs –

Brooklyn,

Queens, the

Bronx, and

Staten Island.

To m a n y,

Manhattan is

New York, and

whatever your

interest in the

city it’s here

that you’ll

spend most

time and, unless

you have friends

elsewhere,

where you are

likely to stay.

Understanding

the intricacies

of Manhattan’s layout in

particular, and above all

getting some grasp on its

subway and bus systems,

should be your first priori-

ty. Note, however, that

New York is very much a

city of neighborhoods, and

one that is best explored

on foot – bring sturdy

shoes; you’re going to be

doing a lot of walking.

쑽 The American Museum of Natural History

쑽 The Bronx Zoo

Contents

Introduction

 NEW YORK AT A GLANCE

INTRODUCTION

Financial District

This area takes in the skyscrapers

and oldest buildings of

Manhattan’s southern tip,

although the most famous aspect

of its skyline, the World Trade

Center, sadly no longer exists.

Chinatown

Manhattan’s most densely populat-

ed ethnic neighborhood, this vibrant

locale is great for Chinese food and

shopping for the truly exotic.

SoHo and TriBeCa

Two of the premier districts for

cafés, galleries and the commer-

cial art scene – not to mention

designer shopping.

Greenwich Village

Tree-lined streets lined with stately

houses are punctuated by bars,

restaurants, and shops catering to

students and would-be bohemi-

ans – and, of course, tourists.

쑽 TriBeCa café

쒀 Chinatown groceries

쒀 The New York Public Library, Midtown East

Midtown East

Home to some of New York’s

most awe-inspiring architecture as

well as superb museums and the

city’s most elegant stores aligning

Fifth Avenue.

Contents

Introduction

INTRODUCTION

Central Park

A supreme display of nineteenth-

century landscaping, without

which life in Manhattan would be

quite unthinkable.

The Upper West Side

This mostly residential neighbor-

hood boasts Lincoln Center, New

York’s temple to the performing

arts, the venerable American

Museum of Natural History, and

bucolic Riverside Park, running

along the Hudson River.

Harlem

Stretching north of Central Park,

this pre-eminent African-

American community boasts a

proud history.

쑽 Columbus Circle, the Upper West Side

쒀 Central Park