encountered a great deal of resistance as we tried to arrange
meetings; it became painfully obvious that the persecution
suffered by the Mayas at the hands of the government—which
was supported by Washington— was blocking our efforts.
Finally, Lynne and I found ourselves in the small adobe house
where a famous shaman lived. He was wearing blue jeans and a
traditional embroidered shirt; a red bandana was wrapped around
his head. His home carried the aroma of wood fires and herbs. It
was high up in mountains that, like the ones we were passing, had
been ravaged by erosion. He listened quietly while I outlined our
desire to involve him in our meeting, to enlist his help so we
could work more closely with his people. I spoke in Spanish to a
translator who repeated my words in the local Mayan dialect.
When I finished, the shaman launched into an angry speech.
He gestured passionately and shouted. "Why should I help you?"
he demanded. "Your people murdered mine for five hundred
years. Not just the Spanish during colonial times. Your
government has sent secret agents and uniformed troops here
throughout my lifetime, including right now. You attacked my
capital city and overthrew Arbenz, the one president who tried to
help us. You train Guatemalan soldiers to torture Mayas. Now
you ask me to help you?"
"These Mayans," Pepe said, as though he had read my
thoughts, "are obsessed with anger. They blame the rest of us for
all their troubles. We give them work, they complain that we
enslave them. When we don't hire them—my family imported
Haitians who work for pennies—they riot and try to murder us.
And it isn't just here. Similar things are happening throughout the
hemisphere. In the Andes, the Amazon, Mexico, Brazil, Ecuador,
Peru, Venezuela, Bolivia, Colombia. Name any country south of
the Rio Grande. You gringos don't get it because you killed off all
your Indians. We should've followed your example." He tapped
my knee for emphasis. "Mark my words, the challenge of the next
few decades will be