
The Lace Border.
193
Lace belongs in most cases
to
the
Free-ornaments. More
rarely
it is manufactvired
as an
Insertion, with
the character of a ribbon,
or
for
independent
use as a
Shawl
or
Wrap.
Compared with Fringe,
the
applications
of Lace are freer and more varied, and by no means
con
fined
to
the
character
of a
pendant
termination. The reader
may be
assumed
to be acquainted with the various uses of lace.
If
we exclude the allied Crochet-work
as
not strictly
belonging
to
this section,
we
shall find
that
the
manufacture
of
Lace may
be
divided
into
two groups:
(1)
sewed
or Point lace; and
(2)
bobbin
or
Pillow
lace. The former method has chiefly been practised in Italy,
Spain,
Ireland, and France;
the latter
in England, France, the Nether-
lands,
Schleswig,
Switzerland, -and
Saxony.
The
chief
centres of the
lace
industry
were and
to
some extent still are: Venice, Genoa, Milan,
Ragusa,
Devonshire, Buckinghamshire, Ireland, Alengon, Valenciennes,
Brussels,
Mechlin,
Binche, Tondern,
Annaberg,
&c.
As in
other branches,
the cheap
Machine-made
article has nowa-
days
reduc^
the
manufacture
of the dearer but
far
more valuable
Hand-made
lace to very modest limits. See Eeports
on Lace,
by
Alan
S.
Cole (Department
of Science
and Art).
Among
the
numerous kinds of Lace for which no generally
re-
cognised
terminology
as
yet
exists,
we
have selected
some, principally
of
older
date, among
which the best
patterns are
to
be
found:
Point coup6
(punto tagliato). The linen ground
is cut-out and
the
edges worked with
the
needle.
Point tir6
(punto a
maglia quadra).
Single compartments
of
a
quadrangular knotted
or woven net are filled-up.
Point tir6
(punto tirato). The threads
of the linen fabric
are
partially
pulled-out, the
others connected together
and sewed
round.
Point
coup6. (punto a reticeUa).
Groups of threads sb'etched
lengthwise
and
crosswise like a net, are spun
round and
connected.
Point
nou6
(punto
a groppo). Produced by
plaiting
and knotting
the
threads.
Point
lace. The threads are
sewed together, following
the
pattern,
and
joined together
by "brides". This
is
almost the only
kind
of
lace which can
now be found
on
ladies*
work-tables.
Plate
120.
The Lace
Bordee.
1. Venetian
guipure,
old pattern-book.
2. Point none,
end of the
15th century.
3
—4,
Old,
point.
5
—
8.
Modern,
pillow,
old
patterns.
9.
Modern,
knotted,
with
fringe, (Macrame lace).
Meyar^
Eaodbook
of
Ornament.
13