suraiya n. faroqhi
built a palace, soon abandoned but still extant, whose style was visibly inspired
by Seljuk architecture.
39
However, the best-known examplesoccurred in Cairo,
where numerous buildings were put up that featured elements reminiscent
of Mamluk building.
40
Unfortunately, in the absence of written sources about
building practice we can only surmise, but do not really know, what patrons
may have intended by adopting this ‘historicist’ style.
While the merits and demerits of architecture were not usually discussed in
writing, the expansion of domestic consumption in well-to-do households was
subject to considerable public dispute. This phenomenon has been observed
not only in Istanbul itself, but also in provincial towns. Post-mortem invento-
ries as well as surviving items show that walls decorated with frescoes, larger
quantities of textiles, jewellery for women and decorated arms and horse-gear
for men all became more abundant in the course of the eighteenth century.
Fine woollens were often imported from France or England, and good-quality
cottons from India, but in addition local products were in demand, such as the
silks produced in Bursa and on the island of Chios. Miniatures and sultanic
decrees also document the interest of wealthy urbanites in fashion changes.
In reaction, many sultans attempted to enhance their legitimacy by decreeing
sumptuary regulations, echoing the complaints of less well-capitalised artisans
who could not easily adapt their products to changing tastes.
41
In addition, this
increase in consumption was criticised by certain authors who deplored the
outflow of precious metal to India, the ‘uppity’ ways of better-off Jewish and
Christian males, as well as the – supposedly – increasing financial demands
made by women upon their spouses. But all these complaints and prohibitions
do not seem to have prevented the establishment, in the course of the eigh-
teenth century, of what might be called an early form of ‘consumer culture’
among well-to-do Ottomans, Muslims and non-Muslims alike.
In conclusion
It is against the backdrop of the research briefly outlined here that the present
volume has been put together. Emphasis has been placed on those topics
39 Hamza G
¨
undo
˘
gdu, Do
˘
gubayazit
˙
Ishak Pasa Sarayı (Ankara, 1991).
40 Doris Behrens-Abouseif, ‘The Abd al-Rahm
ˆ
an Katkhud
ˆ
a Style in 18th Century Cairo’,
Annales Islamologiques 26 (1992), 117–26.
41 Madeline C. Zilfi, ‘Goods in the Mahalle: Distributional Encounters in Eighteenth Cen-
tury Istanbul’, in Consumption Studies and the History of the Ottoman Empire, 1550–1922:An
Introduction, ed. Donald Quataert (Albany, 2000), pp. 289–312; Madeline C. Zilfi, ‘Whose
Laws? Gendering the Ottoman Sumptuary Regime’, in Ottoman Costumes: From Textile
to Identity, ed. Suraiya Faroqhi and Christoph Neumann (Istanbul, 2004), pp. 125–41.
16
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