North and south of the Emilian Way two ancient capitals survive:
Ravenna, once the retreat of Roman emperors, and San Marino, the
inextinguishable republic. Around the ninth-century convent of St.
Marinus (d. 366) a tiny settlement formed, which, from its once easily
defensible perch on a rocky mountain top, remained immune to all the
condottieri of the Renaissance. Its independence was formally
recognized by Pope Urban VIII in 1631, and endures by the courtesy
of the Italian government, which finds little there to tax. Ravenna
recaptured a passing prosperity after the Venetians took it in 1441;
Julius II reclaimed it for the papacy in 1509; and three years later a
French army, having won a famous battle near by, felt entitled to sack
the city so thoroughly that it never recovered until the Second
World War, which shattered it again. There, on a commission from
Bernardo Bembo, father of the poet cardinal, Pietro Lombardo
designed the tomb (1483) that houses Dante's bones.
Rimini- where the Emilian Way, just south of the Rubicon, reached
its Adriatic end- entered violently into Renaissance history through
its ruling family, the Malatestas- Evil Heads. They appear first
toward the end of the tenth century as lieutenants of the Holy Roman
Empire, governing the Marches of Ancona for Otho III. By playing Guelf
and Ghibelline factions against each other, and making obeisance now
to the emperor, now to the pope, they acquired actual, though not
formal, sovereignty over Ancona, Rimini, and Cesena, and ruled them as
despots acknowledging no morals except those of intrigue, treachery,
and the sword. Machiavelli's Prince was a feeble echo of their
reality- blood and iron turned into ink, like Bismarck into Nietzsche.
It was a Malatesta, Giovanni, who, in a monogamous moment, killed
his wife Francesca da Rimini and his brother Paolo (1285). Carlo
Malatesta established the repute of the family in the patronage of
arts and letters. Sigismondo Malatesta carried the dynasty to its
zenith of power, culture, and assassination. His many mistresses
gave him several children, in some instances with disturbing
simultaneity. `05129 He married thrice, and killed two wives on
pretext of adultery. `051210 He was alleged to have made his
daughter pregnant, to have attempted sodomy with his son, who repelled
him with drawn dagger, `051211 and to have wreaked his lust upon the
corpse of a German lady who had preferred death to his